Former Fat Guy Blog » Scott Bird

10 Quick Ways to Shrink Your Waste

Scott Bird — Mon, 14 Apr 2008 02:46:45 +0000

Household waste, that is *.

Here are 10 quick ways to reduce the amount of garbage that goes into your bins every week. Even if you’re not thinking about the environmental impact of doing this; it’ll be less to carry.

* If you’re looking to shrink your waist, Rob‘s your man.

Give it away

A ‘spring clean‘ – at any time of the year – is a great opportunity to take advantage of this one. If you’ve got something which is perfectly reasonable (but no longer wanted); give it away. Donate it to charity, give it to a neighbour or find a friend/family member who’d love to take it off your hands.

This works well for low-priced items, or things which are far too heavy to consider putting up for sale.
Sell it online

Once all of the low-value goods are out of the way, there’s a good chance that you’ve got quite a few things left. Grab a couple of photos, write brief descriptions and put them up on an auction site like eBay. Alternately, use any of the larger trading sites such as Craigslist, Loot or the Trading Post.
Compost heap

If you spend many a sunny weekend raking up leaves or mowing the lawn, a compost heap is for you. This will give you a quick, simple way to turn the unwanted leaf litter and grass clippings into great material for the gardens.

To find out exactly how to make a compost pile or bin, take a look at this article.
Make your own mulch

When it comes to garden equipment, one of my favourites is a machine known as ‘The Piecemaker‘ (great name). It simply breaks up larger stems and branches into bite-size pieces – perfect for garden mulch.

Like the compost heap, a shredder or mulcher is a great way to turn garden waste into useful garden product. Beautiful.
Take your own shopping bags

Quick question for you : when you go shopping, do you take your own bags? This is a particularly easy way to cut back on your household waste. After all, the plastic or paper bags provided at each store have to go somewhere once they’re home. If you can avoid using them at all, great.

To read a little more about this, head over to the article 5 Ways To Reduce Packaging In Your Grocery Shopping.
Set up a worm farm

I love worm farms. Although I usually think of them as indoor equipment, I understand entirely if you’d rather keep yours outside. In a slightly sheltered area, of course.

A worm farm is a great way to convert unwanted kitchen scraps into nutrients for your garden. It can even work its magic on your dog’s, well, ‘markers‘. And, if you’re wondering, it’s great to have a worm farm as well as a compost heap. Slightly different functions.
Grow your own fruit & veg

One of the simplest ways to reduce your household waste is to produce at least some of your own food. This doesn’t necessarily mean opening a cattle ranch or dairy farm; growing a few fruits and vegetables will start things off.

If gardening isn’t exactly a strong point (either you never grow anything or you kill almost any plant you touch), a large pot filled with herbs is a great start. In general, they’re tough little things.

To see how it’s done (and don’t worry, it’s little more than pot + soil + plants), walk this way.
Use it for something else

This is a technique which is often overlooked – re-using an item for something else. An old bookshelf that gradually makes its way to the garage, a pair of socks that enjoy a new life as dusting cloths and so on. Before throwing something away, ask yourself if it could be used for something else.

Of course, there are many, many ways to reuse the items which you may already have. Whether you’re looking for something in the ‘arts and crafts‘ line, or are much more at home in the garage; these should give you a few ideas :
Restore and Renovate

Although the impact is somewhat more subtle, this is the second cousin of the ‘re-use‘ category above. Essentially, it’s just re-using an item for the original purpose.

Another question to ask when about to throw an item away – would you keep using it if it were in better condition? If the answer’s ‘yes‘, then it may be worth the time and effort involved in fixing it up. Especially with larger, expensive items.

As the restoration of just about anything (furniture and cars are at the top of most lists) is a specialist activity, I won’t even attempt to cover things here. I will point out though, that with a bit of time and effort (and – in some cases – money); almost anything can be restored.
Use biodegradable packaging

Back to the great outdoors, sort of. Whenever you buy something, think for a second where the packaging is going to end up. I don’t just mean ‘in the bin‘ (although that’s a start), I mean slightly further down the line. Sitting atop a massive pile of garbage somewhere?

Whenever possible, opt for materials which break down fairly easily. Think of a paper-wrapped parcel from the butcher, rather than the equivalent plastic and foam concoction at the local supermarket.

A rule of thumb here – if you’re not sure if it breaks down easily, it probably doesn’t.

Bonus : Recycle glass, paper and plastic

Remember cleaning up after the last party you had? All of the bottles and cans? Recycling is a particularly simple way to get rid of them all. And a whole lot more.

Final thoughts on shrinking your waste

Just about anything you throw away can be put under one of the headings above. For the remainder, well, keep on making it smaller. It’s a lot easier to carry.

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CFLs and Mercury

Scott Bird — Sun, 30 Mar 2008 23:12:21 +0000

The other day, Rob pointed me to an article on a topic which has been in the news quite a bit lately – the concern over the mercury contained in compact fluorescent (CFL) lamps. The original piece is here.

That article – and many others – gives the reader a somewhat inaccurate impression of the situation. Here’s a brief look at the use of compact fluorescent lighting, including the safe disposal of broken or used bulbs.

What are Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs)?

A CFL is essentially just a smaller version of the fluorescent tubes you see in many offices and supermarkets. The tubes are generally much slimmer, and twisted into a spiral or other compact design. The photo at left shows one of the more common varieties.

These lights have grown in popularity enormously over the past couple of years; mostly due to the fact that they consume far less power than the incandescent light globes we’ve all been using for decades. A low-wattage CFL will typically light the room as much as a high-powered incandescent equivalent.

The concern over mercury

Whilst they do use far less power than similar incandescent lights, CFLs require a little more attention when it comes to disposal. There are several differences between the two technologies, but the primary concern is over a single aspect of the CFLs :

CFLs contain a tiny amount of mercury.

The amount of mercury found in a CFL – even a broken one – is tiny (usually less than 4 milligrams), and extremely unlikely to cause a problem. To illustrate this, here’s a quick calculation based on a typical CFL in a medium-sized room (a child’s bedroom, if you like) :

a CFL containing 4mg of mercury breaks in a room containing 25m3 of air (a medium-sized room). The entire 4mg of mercury vaporises, resulting in an airborne mercury concentration of 0.16mg / m3. This level will fall rapidly, as air from outside / other areas of the house comes in to the room. In all likelihood, it will be at zero after an hour or so.

The US Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA) standard (the level which is considered safe) is 0.05mg /m3 averaged over eight hours. Even if the air in the room (containing the broken CFL) takes 8 hours to be replaced, the level of mercury from the bulb is only a minuscule 0.02mg /m3. Well within the guidelines.

What to do when a CFL breaks

On the rare occasion when a CFL is broken, a little caution is necessary. Both the glass and the mercury need to be disposed of carefully. Here’s how :

open any windows in the room itself, and elsewhere in the house
if you have an air-conditioner or central heating system, switch it off
clean up the broken glass carefully (avoid touching it with your skin, or vacuuming it up)
wipe the area with a paper towel in order to mop up any remaining glass fragments, and mercury
put the broken light, and the paper towel, in a plastic bag and take it to a recycling centre (hazardous waste section)

Leave the room. It’ll be back to normal in an hour or so.

Safe disposal of Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs)

Although breakages are extremely rare, CFLs should still be disposed of carefully when they reach the end of their life (or are no longer required). Fortunately, there are a couple of ways to do just this.

For used or unwanted fluorescent lighting, take a look at the Tube Terminator. This thing’s superb.

To see it in action, head over to The New Inventors site (it was shown on there last year). Although the demonstration focuses on the larger form of fluorescent lighting, an adapter is available for CFLs.

Alternately, take the light(s) to a recycling centre which handles CFLs. In the US, check out the Lamp Recycle and ALMR sites.

An alternative to Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs)

If you’re looking for a low-energy alternative to the compact fluorescents, check out the current generation of LEDs. These make use of yet another technology, require even less power to run and are simpler to dispose of.

LEDs are not yet considered inexpensive, but prices are falling rapidly. If you haven’t taken a look at them in the past few months, it’s well worth your time. You’ll save a considerable amount of money over their lifetime.

Final thoughts on CFLs and mercury

Whilst CFLs do contain a tiny amount of mercury, it’s nowhere near the levels that some news reports would have you believe. As with many consumer items, all that’s required is a little common sense.

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Monitoring Your Energy Usage

Scott Bird — Mon, 24 Mar 2008 00:35:51 +0000

Having access to any sort of information – in real time – can help make almost anything more effective. A car’s speedometer, a wristwatch; that thin red line you see on televised swimming finals.

When it comes to energy use around the house, this idea certainly holds true. Having an idea of the amount of electricity, water, gas etc which is being used can help you make real changes – quickly. And as you’re likely to be saving money in the process, the first place you’ll notice the benefits may just be your utility bills.

As with most things on the market, there are a number of options when it comes to energy monitoring. Here are a few of my favourites.

EcoVision

The EcoVision – shown the other night on The New Inventors – is a real-time, touch-screen display for your home that shows the household’s current power and water consumption. The system is also geared for group or community use – showing the consumption levels of a communal building or small town.

Future versions of the device are expected to collate national and global data.

My thoughts on this : although it’s a great idea for new homes, it isn’t – yet – ready to be connected to existing houses. Once it does, and the price of touch-screen displays drops, it will undoubtedly take off. To see more, watch the New Inventors segment, or head over to www.ecovisionsolutions.com.au.

NB : You may also be interested in the MorePower Multi, which is heading along a similar path.

Wattson

This is at the stylish forefront of energy usage monitoring, and looks the part (as well as acting the part). In terms of functionality, it simply monitors how much electricity your house is using, and displays that information in the form of coloured lights and the cost of the power.

My thoughts on this : whilst it’s clearly a good-looking device (and made Stuff Magazine‘s ‘Cool Gadget List‘ last year), it’s a little on the expensive side. For energy-monitoring, at least.

NB : There are a number of devices similar to this – with varying prices – such as The Owl (formerly the Cent-A-Meter, known as Electrisave in the UK) and the Efergy.

EWGECO

Developed by Scottish inventor Tanya Ewing, the EWGECO is a small, hand-held monitoring device for tracking electricity, gas and water consumption. Once it learns your ‘usual‘ consumption patterns (which takes about a week), it’ll display – in real time – whether you’re higher or lower than this; and by how much.

At the moment it’s for business use only; a household model is due out shortly. More info is available on the EWGECO site.

My thoughts on this : the integrated electricity/gas/water approach makes a lot of sense to me; as does the small, handheld idea. It’s now possible to think of this offering as part of another device, such as a cellphone or television.

Kill-A-Watt

The Kill-A-Watt is much like a double-adaptor with a screen; quickly identifying the electricity usage of any device plugged in to it. A handy way to check up on your existing appliances.

My thoughts on this : although it may seem to have a limited use (after all, it’s only for one appliance at a time), it’s nice and cheap. Around $20 on Amazon.

NB : Devices similar to this include the Prodigit 2000M plug-in mains power & energy monitor and the Brennenstuhl PM230 Electricity Meter.

Other options

If you’re not in a position to spend money at the moment, there are still a couple of things you can do. The first is to grab as many of your electricity bills (from that house) as you can, and get an idea of the amount you generally use. Watch for seasonal changes, which may be an air-conditioner, pool cleaner or heating system.

The second is to use one of the free online calculators, such as this one (US only). This will give you an approximate breakdown of your electricity usage.

Final thoughts on Monitoring Your Energy Usage

These devices all have one thing in common – they make it easy to keep an eye on your power consumption; reducing your power bills in a number of cases. Whether your goals are environmentally-based, or simply related to saving a bit of cash; monitoring your energy usage is well worth considering.

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Solar Technology in the Streets

Scott Bird — Mon, 25 Feb 2008 03:26:17 +0000

The other day I noticed a solar-powered lighting system beside a main road, connected to a set of school-zone warning lights *. Once I began looking, I noted several solar-powered devices around the streets. Here are just a few of my favourites.

* As in many parts of the world, one of the road rules here (Sydney, Australia) requires a reduced speed around schools during the times the children arrive and leave each day. A set of lights and warning signs often announces this.

What are the main advantages of solar-powered devices?

Before we begin, let’s take a quick look at two of the key advantages of solar-powered devices in general. These apply to almost anything that’s solar-powered – whether it’s intended for domestic or commercial use.

Installation is often simpler. Once you remove the cables supplying power to the device itself (and I’m obviously referring to larger equipment here), the installation requirements are greatly simplified in many cases. It’s also less to worry about when you’re digging nearby.
Greatly reduced maintenance costs. A significant part of the maintenance cost for many electrical devices involves the power supply, and the transmission of this power to the core of the equipment. Solar-powered devices remove this.

Once the initial cost comes down to a reasonable level, local government bodies stand to save a considerable amount of money; both when the items are new, and on an ongoing basis.

Solar-powered devices in the streets

Now, on to the devices themselves. These are all things which are currently available, and in use in various parts of the world. If you’d like to see more of them where you live, just talk to your local council or government.

Street lights

These really show off the two advantages above. With nothing physically connecting them to each other (wireless communications sort out the timing and collective functions), they take up a very small space at ground level. Meanwhile, the reduced maintenance cost enables them to be employed along minor roads in small towns which otherwise go poorly lit.

Although there are many varieties, the one in the photo at left shows a typical setup. The overall shape of each streetlight is almost unchanged.

NB : Portable versions of these are also available – perfect for temporary uses, such as roadworks.

Parking meters

These are the first solar-powered devices I saw beside the roads, several years ago. As solar options become cheaper and more efficient, the solar-powered parking meters are making their presence felt in a number of parts of the world.

School safety lights

These are the lights I mentioned at the beginning of this article. The device itself is a simple warning sign – a series of flashing lights and an area of text – and is ideal for the solar approach.

NB : a great alternative is the SafeZone, which features a series of coloured road-based markers. Very easy to see.

Bus shelters

This seems like an obvious use for solar technology, as it’s fairly simple to modify existing shelters; without any significant change to their appearance. These are gradually becoming more common in many areas.

Buses

The Tindo Solar Bus I pointed to recently operates on a very simple model. The solar power is gathered at the bus depot, not on the vehicle itself; and simply recharges the vehicle at night (in the same way as a plug-in hybrid). Being an electric vehicle, the bus is almost silent, and perfect for the typical short journeys around urban areas.

Solar Road Markers

As you can see from the photo, these are essentially solar-powered cats-eyes. As you’d expect for devices which are going to suffer being run over many times a day, they’re extremely tough. Temperature extremes, heavy traffic – no problem at all. Great things.

Temporary Traffic lights

This is a superb combination of power from renewable and non-renewable sources – solar-powered temporary traffic lights. As with the street lights, these often make use of wireless communications to keep everything running smoothly.

Street signs

Many of the above devices have a common trait – the energy is harnessed, stored and then re-used when appropriate. Street signs are a perfect example of this. Solar energy is collected during the day, and used to power lighting (for the sign) at night.

A battery backup easily covers the dim and overcast days.

And a few that I’d like to see :

Permanent Traffic lights

Now that solar-powered temporary traffic lights are available, it isn’t exactly a huge leap to incorporate the same technology in permanent setups. After all, an intersection which is suddenly without traffic lights is chaotic at best.

Safety railings

Although several varieties of solar-powered bollards are already available, I haven’t yet come across similar options when it comes to sections of safety railing.

Public Recharge points

Similar to the solar-powered bollards mentioned above – although they’d simply store their energy, rather than offer lighting – would be public recharge points. If your electric car or hybrid is running low on power, simply pull over and plug in for a while.

The cost of maintaining something like this? Very low indeed.

Final thought on Solar Technology in the Streets

I love the idea of solar power; after all, it’s essentially free electricity. The next time you’re in town, take a look around at the ways in which solar-powered devices could really reduce costs and simplify things.

Chances are, there are more than you think.

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Saving Water : Designing a water-efficient house

Scott Bird — Mon, 11 Feb 2008 06:31:39 +0000

This is the sixth and final article (part I, II, III, IV and V) in our series on Saving Water. Living in Sydney, Australia I’m acutely aware of the value of this precious resource.

Designing a new house? Great. This article looks at the many things you can do at this point which will radically reduce the amount of water you use – without adding anything at all to the total cost.

By how much can you reduce it? In many areas, it’s quite possible to disconnect from the mains supply altogether – or at least to stop using water from that source.

Let’s get started.

Water conservation can be broken into three broad areas. These are :

reduce the amount you use
collect your rainwater *
re-use it where possible (clean it as necessary)

Looking at it this way, you’ll see that it isn’t a single problem to be addressed. Several small changes will have a major impact.

* I realise that this could be placed in the ‘re-use’ category, but it’s such a key change that it’s been given a category of its own.

Reduce the amount you use

There are a few ways to do this. The first is by changing your behaviour (brushing your teeth without the water running, using a bucket for the cold shower water); a second is by using more efficient appliances. Designing a new house gives you the perfect opportunity to do this.

When buying water-efficient appliances, be sure to find out if there are any rebates available in your area, and take full advantage of them. Unexpected income is always a nice feeling, and the extra cash may make the difference between a device that’s ‘OK’ and the one you really want.

The third way is a little less obvious. Almost any physical product you buy (a can of tomatoes, for example) will incur a fair amount of production, packaging, transportation and display. Purchasing an alternative product (or, in the case of tomatoes, growing your own) often reduces the cost of things, labour involved, power and water used. Of course it isn’t always possible – or even reasonable – to buy something else; but it can make quite a difference in the long run.

When designing your house, it’s a great opportunity to take advantage of this third approach. Although the savings involved with a can of tomatoes may be negligible, a change of housing materials or suppliers can reward you with a notable reduction. In fact, the first place you’ll notice it is often in your wallet.

For more on these approaches, see the article How to save water around your house.

Collect your rainwater

This one alone will have a massive impact on the amount of water you purchase – and the home-design stage is the perfect time to really take advantage of it. In an earlier article we looked at the various types of water tanks; all are great, however some of them are much more realistic when building a new home.

Particularly the bladder and wall tanks. Designing a deck to fit around a tank (rather than squeezing a tank into the space available) is definitely the way to go. Much, much cheaper.

In fact, you’ll probably be able to collect much more rainwater in a new home than an existing one of the same size. How much should you collect? Quite simply, as much as you can.

For more on this, see the article the benefits of using a water tank.

Re-use it where possible

Once again, there are a couple of approaches here. As with the section on ‘reduce the amount you use’, a few minor changes in behaviour can have a marked impact. Directing excess water from your washing machine on to the garden, using bathwater to ‘bucket flush’ the toilet.

When designing a new house, however, you can also take advantage of both greywater and blackwater recycling. As one of the largest costs with these systems is the plumbing, this is the perfect time to set things up.

Installing a greywater system

In the last article we looked at greywater – what it is, and how to use it. Several options were noted, ranging from small behavioural changes to complete systems to clean and re-use the water supply. When it comes to the design of a new house, there’s a great opportunity to take advantage of all of them; particularly the full recycling systems.

There are several available, and your decision will certainly come down to location and budget; however a good place to start is with the Nubian Oasis.

For more on this, see the article Using Greywater.

Blackwater

Blackwater is water which contains the waste from areas such as toilets and greasetraps; and accordingly needs quite a bit of cleaning before it can be re-used. The result is usually Class A+ water – the highest standard of recycled water possible. Although some regulations prevent you from drinking this water (and you’d be fine if you did), it’s perfectly OK for everything else.

Currently there are only a handful of options when it comes to recycling residential blackwater; though I imagine this will greatly increase over the next few years. An example of a blackwater system that can be purchased right now is this one from EcoNova.

NB : as governments around the world have different viewpoints on equipment such as this, it’s worth asking a few questions of your local council or controlling body.

It isn’t just water you’ll be saving

Throughout this series you may have noticed that in a number of cases, saving water also means saving time, money and electricity. An example of this is the KISSS roof garden system which was shown on the New Inventors a few days ago.

If you didn’t catch the show, the KISSS Ebb and Flow Mat provides an exceedingly simple and cost-effective way to manage a roof garden – even on sloped roofs. In addition to conserving water, the mats will greatly reduce the building’s heating costs (by around 30% for a typical home); as well as cutting back on the installation and maintenance times associated with rooftop gardening.

A brilliant idea.

Final thoughts on designing a water-efficient house

I love water. Tipping your head back in a light snowfall, listening to a trickling stream, watching a fountain (thanks, Marty – this is a great idea), taking a cold shower on a hot day.

Perhaps surprisingly, I also enjoy being surrounded by modern appliances. Fortunately, it’s quite possible to have both.

When designing your house, keep in mind that conserving water actually gives you greater control over your environment. Your bills will be lower, you’ll spend less time on maintenance and there’ll be absolutely no guilt whenever you decide to enjoy a long, hot shower or a soak in the bath.

Ideally, the amount of water your home collects from the rain will be enough to cover 100% of your water needs. In many parts of the world this is entirely possible – and will save you an incredible amount of money.

Designing a new house is the perfect opportunity to take full advantage of this possibility. Save money, help the environment; reduce your maintenance costs – perfect.

I hope this series has given you a couple of ideas when it comes to the topic of saving water. Self-sustainability (at least as far as water is concerned) really isn’t as difficult as you might think.

If you missed any of the previous articles, you can get up-to-speed below :

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Saving Water : Using Greywater

Scott Bird — Mon, 28 Jan 2008 04:16:28 +0000

This is the fifth article in a 6 part series on Saving Water. See part 1 on measuring your tap water, part 2 on benefits of a water tank, part 3 on gutters and drains and part 4 on saving water around the house. Living in Sydney, Australia I’m acutely aware of the value of this precious resource.

When it comes to conserving water, this is the big one. As greywater comprises around three quarters of a household’s waste water, it’s well worth looking at. After all, saving water = saving money.

What is Greywater?

First, a definition.

The water you see around the house can generally be classified as one of three types -

White / fresh water : this is the clear water you drink.
Greywater / graywater : this water contains a small amount of dirt, and is water that has been previously used within the house. The water which leaves the washing machine, for example.
Blackwater : this is the waste water from the toilet.

Just remember the greywater = previously used part, and you’ll begin to see just how much of the stuff there is available.

What can greywater be used for?

At this point you may be wondering exactly what you can do with all of this slightly cloudy water. After all, it contains everything that was washed off your hands, dishes, clothes and so on.

There are two answers to this, as you’ll quickly see in the sections on collecting greywater. It can either be used as-is for a few things, or cleaned up and re-used in any number of ways.

Using greywater as-is

There are a few ways to collect the water in the house, and use it on an appropriate (more on that in a minute) part of the garden. These are all free, and are things that anyone can start doing today. Excellent.

The Bucket Method

In an earlier article on saving water around your house, I mentioned the idea of putting a bucket in the shower, specifically to catch the cold water that comes out before things start to warm up. Once the bucket is full, put it to one side until after your shower; and then pour it on the garden.

An alternative is to use this bucket of water to flush the toilet. Simply pour the water into the bowl, instead of flushing. It’ll automatically flush everything away.

NB : Having a bath? The same thing applies. Grab the bucket afterwards.

Simple redirection

Several appliances (notably washing machines, air-conditioning units and dehumidifers) enable a hose to be connected to the back (often just a regular garden hose) to redirect the waste water. Simply attach a hose to the back of the machine, and point it to an appropriate part of the garden. Perfect.

What is an ‘appropriate’ part of the garden?

In the examples above, much of the water was already clean to begin with; putting it on any area of the garden is fine.

With greywater, however, some plants enjoy it more than others. If you have a choice, use it to water :

Lawns : most grasses are fine with greywater. If the greywater is particularly cloudy, just alternate its use with fresh water.
Trees and large shrubs : the majority of these are fine. Greywater tends to be slightly alkaline, so trees such as Oaks do particularly well with it.
Roses : roses also tend to enjoy slightly alkaline conditions, so greywater is perfect.
Alkaline-loving plants : whilst roses are perhaps the best known, a number of other alkaline-friendly plants enjoy a bit of greywater. These include bougainvilleas, agapanthus and honeysuckle.

As a general rule, use the greywater for ornamental plants rather than those you eat. Whilst there are exceptions, this will keep things running smoothly.

NB : If the garden is physically lower than the machine spitting out the water, you won’t even need a pump. Just plug in and enjoy.

Things to avoid

The vegetable garden : although some vegetables really don’t mind it, the majority don’t like it at all.
Irrigation systems with small holes at some point (even the sprinkler heads) : these occasionally become clogged with the larger material in greywater.

Cleaning up the greywater

As I mentioned earlier, the other way to handle greywater is to collect it; and then clean it up a little. When people talk of the costs associated with greywater, this filtration is usually involved. Effective, yes; but not exactly cheap. Yet.

Why clean the greywater?

By filtering the greywater, the clean water produced can be re-used to flush toilets, run the dishwasher, fill the washing machine and so on. It can also be stored for much longer periods of time.

How is this done?

There are a number of systems on the market for doing this (collection, filtration and storage), with the expected range of appearances and costs. These systems generally work by :

Collection and filtration : the water is taken as it goes down the drain, and redirected into a filtration system.
There’s absolutely no difference in appearance at this point – in fact your neighbours may already be doing it. You’d never know.
Storage : once the majority of impurities have been removed, the water is directed to a storage tank.
Re-use : the storage tank is connected to the wet rooms of the house. Whenever the toilet is flushed, or the washing machine is used (as well as many more devices) – this cleaned greywater is used.

NB : If there isn’t quite enough water in the storage tank, the regular supply of fresh water is automatically used.

Keeping the greywater clean, naturally

As you can see, greywater is simply a mix of the stuff you pour down the drain (except the toilet, of course). No matter whether you’re using a bucket or a cutting-edge filtration system; life will be much, much easier if the water is a little cleaner to begin with.

To keep the greywater as clean as possible, take a look at your household cleaning products. There are a number of items that will do a superb cleaning job (particularly shampoos, laundry and dishwashing detergents); as well as keeping your plants happy. If you’re putting greywater on the garden, these are well worth considering.

Of course, all products vary in their cost, appearance and effectiveness – ask your neighbours what they are using. Regardless of the brand, however, here are a few general guidelines :

use products which are phosphate free
use products which are low in sodium
use products which state that all of their ingredients are biodegradable
use products which are concentrated
use products which can be used in cold water

Although this sounds like a bit of work, most of the products with ‘green‘ names will tick these boxes. And your garden will look great.

Final thought on using greywater

When it comes to saving water, the use of greywater is an obvious choice. Whether you’re using a bucket or a complete filtration system; using greywater just makes sense.

Next week I’ll be taking a look at the many things possible when you’re building a new house, or renovating an existing one. Self-sustainability (at least as far as water is concerned) really isn’t as difficult as you might think.

In the meantime, check out some of the previous articles in this series. Enjoy.

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Saving Water : How To Save Water Around Your House

Scott Bird — Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:10:41 +0000

This is the fourth article (part I, II, III) in a 6 part series on Saving Water. Living in Sydney, Australia I’m acutely aware of the value of this precious resource.

No matter where you live, there are a number of ways you can save water in the house you already have. There are many excellent environmental reasons for doing this, but you’ll also benefit from something much more tangible – you’ll save money.

When it comes to saving water around the home, there are three basic approaches :

reduce the amount of water you use
repair leaking plumbing fixtures
reuse household water

Lets take a look at each of these.

Reduce the amount of water you use

This one is perhaps the most obvious – simply use less. However, as the idea is to use less water without reducing your standard of living, it takes a little thought. After all, water is very much a part of our lives now.

Reduce the amount used for bathing : Whenever possible, opt for a shower rather than a bath (of course an occasional long, hot bath is great – but think of it as a rare treat, not a daily necessity). Try to keep the showers down to a reasonable time – 4 or 5 minutes.

NB : Some low-flow shower heads are also well worth considering. As they vary quite a bit, try out a few whenever you get the chance (when you’re staying in a hotel, at the airport, at a friend’s house). The good ones are virtually indistinguishable from standard shower heads, but use much less water. It’s worth the effort.

Shower with one of your children, or bathe two of them together : Naturally this will depend on several things, but if the option is there; take it. You’ll use much less water.

Reduce the amount used for washing clothes : If you’re in the market for a new washing machine, consider the most water-efficient model available. Although it will most likely cost a little more to begin with, you’ll be saving money for many years to come.

NB : Front-loading machines are generally more water and power efficient than their top-loading cousins (although there are exceptions).

Reduce the amount used for washing clothes, using your existing machine : Not ready for a new machine? There are still things you can do. Try these :

skip additional rinse cycles
if the machine has a ‘save suds’ option, do a couple of loads
use the economy cycle when available
try to avoid washing one thing at a time – if you urgently need to clean something, put a few other things in with it

Reduce the amount used for flushing the toilet : Once again, if you’re in the market for a new loo; you have a range of options available. Low-flush, dual-flush, composting and so on. Your choice really comes down to price, availability, and the one you most like the look of. It’s a personal thing.

That said, if you’re about to go bathroom shopping; begin by looking at the dual-flush options. Good water savings, and a massive variety of styles.

Reduce the amount of water used for flushing the existing toilet : Perhaps you’re renting, or there’s simply nothing wrong with the toilet you already have. There are still a couple of things you can do.

put a plastic bottle (filled with water) in the cistern – you’ll use less water per flush. Alternately, anything of a similar size and weight is fine; you can just use a brick.
there are many devices available which will control the length of each flush. The toilet is flushed only for the length of time the button is held down – much easier to control. These are cheap – starting at around $10.

Repair leaking plumbing fixtures

A dripping tap or toilet is not only incredibly annoying to listen to; it can waste around 200 litres per day. That adds up in a hurry.

Fortunately they’re often quite easy to fix. If you’re DIY-inclined, take a look at the following video which demonstrates the process of fixing a leaky tap.

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NB : If the problem is simply that the faucet is never turned off properly, just take a look at some of the newer handles on offer. There’s no need to replace the whole thing.

Reuse household water

There are many, many ways in which to do this. If you’re keen to set up your own greywater system, great. You’ll love next week’s article.

Even without going that far, however, there are still things you can do. And these really do make a difference.

Collect the cold shower water : I’m sure you know the drill. When it’s time to take a shower, you turn it on and wait for it to warm up. In the meantime, a considerable amount of perfectly good cold water goes down the drain.

Simply grab a bucket and collect the water before it warms up. After your shower, just pour the cold stuff on the garden.

NB : Enjoying a bath? Keep the bucket handy, and when the water cools down; again pour it on the garden.

Redirect the washing machine excess : Once washing machines use their water, the excess is simply thrown down the drain. Instead of the short, flexible pipe which does this; attach a longer garden hose and direct the water to the desired location.

Many dehumidifiers afford the same possibility.

Other ways to save water around the house

Although there are several ideas above, there are actually a number of other ways to save water in your home. A few things to consider :

use the economy setting on your dishwasher
only use the dishwasher when it’s full (for small or single-person households, the split drawer options are great)
fill the kettle only as much as you need at the time (more kettle-centric ideas here)
when peeling or washing vegetables, use a water-filled bowl rather than a running tap
when brushing your teeth, turn the water on/off as required (rather than leave it running)
install aerators in kitchen and bathroom taps

Final thought on saving water around the house

These changes really do work. As an example, a report released recently noted that Sydneysiders now use less water than in 1974 – despite the population growth. That’s a massive reduction.

This is the fourth article in this series on Saving Water. If you missed the previous pieces, you can grab them here :

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Saving water : Guttering and Drains

Scott Bird — Mon, 07 Jan 2008 01:00:06 +0000

This is the third article (see Saving Water Part I and Saving Water Part II)
in a 6 part series on Saving Water. There are many environmental benefits of saving water of course, but for the end consumer, saving money seems to be the key. Living in Sydney, Australia I’m acutely aware of the value of saving water.

Have you ever caught yourself standing indoors during a heavy downpour, wondering where all of the excess water ends up? Obviously the garden can only drink so much, the pool may take a little and the
water tank takes whatever it can.

However, the rest – the vast majority – is simply thrown away.

This article – on guttering and drains – looks at several ways to improve the flow of water around your house (so you can make the most of it), and take a few steps toward the ultimate water goal : any water that falls on your property, stays on your property. No more water bills. Ever.

Water-wise gutters and drains

If you’re planning to build a new house, or replace the guttering for your existing home; you may be wondering just what types of guttering are available. Rest assured, there are many, many varieties of each – here I’ll take a look at just a few of the more unusual options. Water-wise, of course.

Rain Handler : This is a guttering system which actually follows much of the ‘no gutters‘ thinking – water is elegantly removed, without filling up with the dirt and debris all-too-common in guttering.

Rainsaver gutter / tank : I mentioned the rainsaver gutter / tank briefly in my last article about the benefits of using a water tank. Quite simply, it collects the rainfall from the roof; temporarily storing it in a slim tank just beneath the roofline. If your heart is set on guttering of some sort, this is a great idea.

Gutter Monster : for those living near a number of trees, guttering such as the Gutter Monster is perfect. Leaves 0 : Water 1.

Snow Gutters : I love these. If you live in snow country, you’ll quickly see why. This is an incredibly strong, flexible guttering system designed specifically for buildings which receive their fair share of snow and ice. Rather than being allowed to build up on the roof, the snow is allowed to slide off onto the ground.

Great idea.

Atlantis Wall Drainage : these drainage cells come in a great range of shapes and sizes – ready for inclusion in walls, paved areas, gardens and lawns. To get an idea of just how they can be used, take a look at these photos of a Wall Drainage setup in a Sydney car park. Superb.

NB : These are also perfect for a number of residential uses; particularly around gardens.

Beany Block : Like many inventions, a quick look at this begs you to ask ‘why didn’t someone think of that before’. Brilliantly simple idea.

Conventional roadside guttering acts to channel the water along to a specific point, where it is poured into a massive drain. Beany Blocks – developed around two decades ago by Highways Engineer Neill S.
Beanland – are sections of guttering containing an embedded drainage channel. Each section has a large opening to allow the water to enter the channel directly.

Fantastic idea.

Adding value to your house

If you’re not ready to make massive changes to the guttering and drainage around your property, there are a number of small things you can do which will not only increase your water efficiency (saving water of course); they will also add value to your house.

They are :

Round the corners : many plumbers have a habit of creating sharp corners in water pipes – particularly outside the house. Take a walk around your property. Whenever you see a right-angled bend, replace it with a curved section of pipe. Water will flow much more easily around it.

Rainwater diverters : if you’re not quite ready to install water tanks, consider grabbing a simple rainwater diverter. This will divert excess rainwater from your roof – via a normal garden hose – to anywhere more useful. A covered garden perhaps, or a lawn that needs a helping hand.

Keep some of the stormwater : it’s common to see pipes leading from the house into the closest street, where excess water is channeled into the community’s stormwater system (thrown back into the sea). Expose these pipes, drill a few holes in them and let some of this excess flow back into the soil (in dry areas – you’re not trying to create a flood). If you have trees in front of your property, this is a great way to keep them happy.

Where do I go from here?

If you’re anything like me, the above solutions are more than enough to start the wheels turning. When it comes to self-sustainability, managing your water use – and eliminating your water bills entirely – is definitely achievable.

To get a good idea of the things that work well in your area (or the one in which you intend to live), simply wait until the next time it rains; and take a look at a few nearby houses, lawns and roads. You’ll quickly get an idea of the types of water management that are necessary.

Final thoughts on guttering and drains

Although it may seem like a small part of the water-saving puzzle, managing the flow of water around your property can prevent flooding, keep the gardens happy, the pool full and ensure there’s plenty of clean drinking water whenever you need it. It doesn’t get much better than that.

This is the third article in this series on Saving Water. If you missed the previous pieces, you can grab them here :

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Saving Water : The Benefits of Using a Water Tank

Scott Bird — Mon, 17 Dec 2007 01:28:56 +0000

This is the second article in a 6 part series on Saving Water (see part 1 on saving water). Living in Sydney, Australia I’m acutely aware of the value of this precious resource.

Today we’ll be looking at something for home-owners worldwide – the benefits of using a water tank. A rainwater tank, that is.

When I was growing up in Sydney there was no thought of restricting water use. It was common to see people watering their lawns in the evening, washing the car (with a high-pressure hose) on the weekend and standing under the cool, running water on a hot day.

In recent years (over the past decade or so), the idea has been gradually spreading that water is a valuable resource. This is particularly evident during periods of drought, when water restrictions are in place.

One thing that has made a massive difference to the amount of water we have available – taking us back to the ‘good old days‘, if you like – is the installation of a water tank. If you haven’t really thought about putting one in (regardless of where you live), here are a few things which might just have you considering the idea.

What is a water tank?

Firstly, let’s take a step back and make sure we’re both thinking of the same thing. I’m simply referring to a rainwater tank (aka rain barrel), which is simply a large container that collects the water from your roof when it rains; allowing you to re-use that water at other times. Most tanks have a tap near the base, and a common use is to connect a hose and use the water to keep the garden happy.

Of course, there are a number of other things you can do with that water – ranging from looking after your pets to use in dishwashers and washing machines. And the ultimate use; you can drink it.

Types of water tanks

Round and slimline : Tanks come in a variety of shapes and sizes, designed to suit a great range of accommodation. For existing homes there are large, sturdy outdoor models (in a range of shapes, sizes and colours). These just need a solid, flat surface (a small concrete slab or a paved area) somewhere near the guttering. Redirect a downpipe, set up an overflow, and you’re good to go.

NB : An option may be to bury the tank beneath a garden or lawn. Although it takes a bit of work to set up, it’s completely hidden from view. Perfect.

Bladder : Newer homes often take advantage of the massive, inflatable bags which are designed for use under floors or decking. Although it’s possible to install these in existing homes, it’s much easier (and cheaper) to design the floor with the bags in mind.

If you’re living in an apartment or other type of shared accommodation, it’s worth talking to the person/people in charge of things there. Not only is it a sensible and environmentally-friendly approach; it’s often much, much cheaper.

Rainsaver gutter / tank : these tanks are hidden with a fairly typical guttering system, and can hold a surprising amount of water. A notable example is the RainSaver.

Under gravel, paths and gardens : I love the idea of these – particularly for new homes or during major landscaping work.

The tanks resemble milk crates (with a finer mesh, of course), and are buried beneath gardens, paths and driveways. Excess water works its way down to them, where it is stored for later re-use. A beautiful setup.

Atlantis are the best tanks of this type I’ve seen, and there are some excellent resources on their site looking at this approach.

Benefits of tanks

There are several reasons to consider setting up a water tank or two. They are :

Cheaper : When it comes to saving money, this one’s definitely on the shortlist. After all, rainwater is cheaper than the stuff you pay to have piped in.

The only costs to offset that (and these are one-time-only) are the price of the tank itself [rebates are often available], and the installation.

NB : The installation isn’t particularly difficult. If you’re DIY-inclined you can probably do it yourself; otherwise it’s time to call the local plumber or guttering expert. The company which sold you the tank may even install it for you.

Add value to your property : Unsurprisingly, homes with reduced – or no – bills do somewhat better than their conventional counterparts (everything else being equal). Reducing or eliminating the need to buy water can increase the value of your home.

You’ll use less water : Like a lot of things, knowing you ‘can‘ is often enough. Once the tank is in place, you may find yourself using a little less water – simply because you know it’s there, if you need it.

What size tank do I need?

This depends on three main things :

The amount of water you’re using currently (see the first part in this series – How to Measure Your Water Usage for the answer to this)
The space you have available, and are allowed to use
Your financial situation (see the section on Rebates – these may make it a much more reasonable proposition)

Tanks range in size from just a few hundred litres to hundreds of thousands; so there’s bound to be something to suit your current needs. A family home may only require 10,000 litres or less to completely look after its water requirements. That’s for the garden, washing, cooking, drinking – everything.

To find out your own household water use, take a look at the first article in this series – How to Measure Your Water Usage.

How long will it take to fill the tank?

To get an idea of the time it’ll take to fill the tank, you’ll need to know two things :

the rainfall in your area (an approximation is usually available online, or you can measure the actual rainfall on your property)
the area your roof covers (although the material, pitch and installation of your roof all play a role, the area will give you a pretty good idea)

As a guide, 1 square metre of roof will catch about 1 litre of water for each mm of rainfall.

Replacing the household water supply

Although the simplest use for a water tank is to store rainwater to look after the garden on dry days, they can certainly be used to help with any water needs around the house.

The tank’s installer will give you an idea of cost here (if you installed it yourself, just call a local plumber).

Rebates

Although the price of tanks has fallen slightly in recent years, they still require a bit of an investment. One thing which may help is a government rebate.

As these vary from state to state, country to country; it’s worth taking a look to see what’s available in your area. To give you an idea though, here are several of the more common approaches :

In the US : The rebates vary from state to state, and even between water suppliers. The ones listed at Water Saving Hero are fairly typical (these ones apply to residents of California); RainMaster has a more complete list of water conservation and rebate sources here.

In Australia : Rebates here also vary from state to state, with a few of the typical schemes outlined on the Rain Harvesting site.

In the UK : Although rebates are slightly more difficult to find, there are a few available. A good starting point is the Surface Water Drainage Rebate; followed by a phonecall to your local water supplier.

NB : One of the easiest ways to find out what’s available locally is to ask the salesman at your local whitegoods store. If they sell washing machines and dishwashers, they’ll know where to look.

Other considerations

When setting up your rain harvesting system, there are a few things which will keep the process nice and smooth :

A clean roof = greatly reduced need to filter the water. If you’re planning to have your roof scraped, repainted or treated in any way; do this before you set up the tank.
As a secondary precaution, throw away the water from the first fill of the tank.
Adding a screen to the top of the tank will keep leaves and other large debris out of your water supply.
Use an overflow device to redirect the excess water when the tank is full.
Check gutters, downspouts and overflows regularly to make sure they’re not blocked.

Final thoughts on the benefits of using a water tank

I love the idea of putting fresh, clean rainwater to work – at the very least, storing it ready for watering the garden on dry days.

Regardless of whether you own your own home, share accommodation or rent; the benefits of using a water tank are well worth considering.

This is the second article in this series on Saving Water. If you missed it last week, you may also like to check out the first part, the all-important How to Measure Your Water Usage. Good fun.

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Saving Water : How to measure your water usage

Scott Bird — Mon, 10 Dec 2007 05:31:27 +0000

This is the first article in a 6 part series on Saving Water. Living in Sydney, Australia I’m acutely aware of the value of this precious resource.

To start with, here’s a look at something which underlies all efforts to save (and re-use) water – measuring your current water usage.

Can’t I just take a look at my bills?

Your water bills will certainly give you an approximation of the water you currently use – inside the house at least. They won’t take into account the amount of rainfall you receive (which often helps out by watering the garden occasionally, topping up the pool a little and filling up things like small ponds, water features and birdbaths).

Similarly, the bills won’t help you determine how much of your water usage is taken up by different parts of the house. When a slightly higher bill arrives, was it the bath or a leaking tap at fault?

NB : I realise that not everyone receives a separate bill for water usage. It may be part of a regular payment which is made to your local council, or other government body. If that’s the case, the following methods will definitely come in handy. After all, it isn’t free.

Measuring rainfall

This is where I slowly raise my hand and state ‘My name is Scott, and I’m a Weather Geek‘. If you’re not similarly afflicted, don’t worry – measuring rainfall is a painless and simple process. What’s more, it doesn’t involve going outdoors when it’s raining.

The easiest way to do this is to grab yourself something like the Oregon Scientific rain gauge pictured (this is actually the one I use). Essentially it’s a small bucket – which gets left out in the rain – and a small display which sits in comparative comfort indoors. The bucket communicates with the indoor display (via a wireless connection), and tells you exactly how much rain has just fallen. It also tracks the rainfall over the previous month.

All you need to do is write down the mm/inches that it says. I’ll show you how to use that information in an upcoming piece.

Checking for leaks

Before you begin checking the various appliances around your house, it’s a good idea to quickly check for leaks. No only will this alert you to a potential problem (and allow you to easily save some money), it will take ‘leaking taps‘ out of the equation.

Doing this is extremely simple :

Turn of everything which is using water, and check the meter
Wait a couple of hours
Check the meter again

If there’s any difference in the meter readings, chances are you have a leak somewhere. If possible, fix this prior to taking the next measurement.

Measuring individual items – the bucket test

Although there are many ways to measure the flow of water, one of my own favourites (for indoor measurements) is also the quickest, simplest and cheapest. The bucket test.

For items (such as the shower) where the water disappears down a drain after a brief visit, simply :

Turn it on as much as you would normally have it
Catch the water in an empty bucket, for a known time (say, 1 minute)
Measure or estimate the amount of water in the bucket

You can now work out how much water you use in a 5 minute shower (or however long it takes).

NB : This method can also be used to measure activities such as washing the car.

Measuring ‘filled’ items

When it comes to measuring items which are filled prior to use (such as a bath, or the kitchen sink); just estimate the volume. To get an idea, treat the object (bath or sink) as being rectangular, and simply multiply length x width x height.

If you’re mathematically inclined, you know exactly how to refine this. Go crazy.

NB : The toilet actually gets included in this category. Although the water ends up in the slightly weird shape of the bowl, it starts out in that rectangular box overhead. Take the lid off, see how much water’s in there, and measure it in the same way as the bath.

Measuring Whitegoods

This is where things get a little tricky. The easiest way (by far) is just to have a look in the manual, which will usually tell you exactly how much water is used per load. If it just tells you the flow rate, multiply this by the amount of time it runs.

If the manual isn’t available, grab a few buckets and measure the water which leaves the machine; before it disappears down the drain.

Adding it all up

By now you’ve got a pretty good idea of how much water you use in a shower, a bath, washing the car and so on. To get an idea of how much you use on an ongoing basis, however, keep a diary.

This doesn’t need to be a lifelong thing by any means – a week should do just fine. For 7 days, keep track of the number of loads of washing you do, showers you have etc. At the end of the week it will be a simple matter to work out the amount of water you use.

As a check – grab a couple of recent water bills and work out the amount you use per week. Alternately, note down the meter reading at the start and end of the 7 days. The totals should be reasonably similar.

Final thoughts

Naturally, the purpose of measuring your household water use is to help keep things in check. It can be a great way to see wasteful areas, or those which are in need of a little fine-tuning.

Next week I’ll be taking a look at a great way to squeeze a little more out of the water you already have – installing a rainwater tank.

These activities can make a great project for the kids. If you’d like to teach your young ones the value of water conservation in a simple and fun way, leave a comment below or send me an email. There are a lot of great resources available for precisely this.

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10 Electric Cars You Can Buy Right Now

Scott Bird — Mon, 03 Dec 2007 21:47:55 +0000

Following a brief piece on electric cars I’ve received several emails about the idea of converting or purchasing them. I’ll look at the many aspects of converting existing cars in a future article; for now though, here are 10 Electric cars you can buy right now.

There are pro’s and cons of course (advantages and disadvantages of electric cars), but by far the biggest advantage is the impact on the earth. There are also lots of options to choose from in the various models.

A few pros and cons

Before the list itself, a few words on the advantages and disadvantages of electric cars. If you’re thinking about making the switch, a few things to consider are :

Disadvantages

Cost : As the number of these vehicles is still tiny when compared to their gas-guzzling cousins, they usually cost a little more up front. Of course, the running costs can be greatly reduced.
Range : For regular trips to work or the shops, these cars are often an ideal solution. For longer journeys, however, the limited range (before recharging) is worth keeping in mind.
Reduced top speed : Although very few people put their car’s top speed to the test, some just like to know it’s their. In many cases, electric cars will have a reduced top speed.
Frequency of ‘refuelling‘ : This is a necessary evil – and relates to the car’s range and how you use it. Something to consider.
Availability of refuelling points : While there are several cars (listed below) using similar technologies, the recharging methods are not always the same. Take a look at the method your preferred car uses, and take a look around to see how many refuelling points there really are.
Conversion of your current garage : The simplest way to recharge your car is usually just to plug it in at home. In some cases, this will require a small amount of up-front work.
Lack of noise : The first time you drive through a small town you’ll notice the impact of a low-noise vehicle. When people don’t hear it coming, they are more likely to step out in front of it (when crossing the street, for example). A little noise can be a good thing.

NB : Despite these minor disadvantages, I believe the benefits completely outweigh the drawbacks. Particularly since a number of the points above are gradually being reduced.

Advantages

The most obvious advantage, of course, is a reduced impact on the environment. A smaller carbon footprint if you like.

In addition to this, however, there is another benefit which is certainly worth thinking about – they can be much, much cheaper to run. Especially since a number of these vehicles also qualify for a myriad of parking and road tax rebates.

The cars

Now. on to the cars themselves :

NB : These are in no particular order, and there are certainly more than 10 manufacturers currently producing electric vehicles. These, however, are all reasonable choices in many parts of the world – particularly the US and the UK.

Tesla Roadster
When it comes to performance and styling, this one definitely makes the shortlist. A beautiful car.

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Phoenix SUT (Sport Utility Truck)
After an SUT? Try the Phoenix. Looks great.

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ZENN
ZENN = Zero Emissions, No Noise. Not bad at all.

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Mullen L1X-75
Slightly more pricey than many cars on this list, but definitely a performer.

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G-Wiz EV
Live in a large, densely populated city? Consider the G-Wiz.

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GEM e2
Speed isn’t everything.

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Kurrent
Not a bad mix. The Kurrent.
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Silence T-REX
Although the name is somewhat misleading, this holds promise in the performance stakes.

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Tango
Very unusual.

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Wrightspeed X-1
One more in the performance column.
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As you can see, there are a number of options available – regardless of the type of car you currently drive. Which is your favourite?

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Are Electric Cars Ready for Prime-Time?

Scott Bird — Mon, 19 Nov 2007 05:29:56 +0000

A friend of mine asked me a question this morning which definitely has the wheels turning. Although electric cars have been around for decades, is it reasonable yet to drive one on a regular basis?

In coming weeks I’ll be looking at the various ‘conversion vs kit‘ options available; as well as the occasional progress report from my friend’s garage. It’s a fascinating subject.

For now, though, just a couple of quick questions. For anyone who’s already done this (either by converting an existing car, or constructing one from scratch – usually from a kit);

what are your thoughts on the experience?
is there anything you’d do differently now?

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The Ultimate Guide to Freezing Food II : Chest Freezers and Defrosting Methods

Scott Bird — Sun, 18 Nov 2007 00:09:03 +0000

This two-part article looks at the many ways to freeze food (including specifics for common food types), as well as a few suggestions for getting the most out of your freezer itself. It can be a wonderful piece of equipment.

In Part I we looked at the basics of freezing, and how to freeze vegetables, fruit and meat. This week we’ll talk about the ways to save money by using a chest freezer, and the all-important defrosting of foods.

Using a chest freezer

A chest freezer is little more than a ‘standard’ vertical freezer lying down. Think of the ones in smaller stores which are filled with Cornettos. Mmm.

Unfortunately, these aren’t quite as popular as their upright cousins, and are often found in the dim, dark corners of department stores and electrical good suppliers. Pity, really – because they’re superb when you know how to use them.

There are two things which put the chest freezer at the top of the list when it comes to keeping food for a while. These are :

Storage : whilst upright freezers often have shelves, ice-cube trays and automatic defrosting gear; chest freezers are generally little more than a big open box. Perfect for large slabs of meat and trays of vegetables. The big stuff.

Stay cold : when the door is opened on vertical freezers, the cold air tends to come out and down (chilling your feet if you stand there long enough); as warmer air rushes in to take its place.

With a chest freezer, the cold air is already sitting near ground level – so there’s less chance of it going anywhere.

In short, chest freezers tend to keep the cold air on the inside, where it belongs. They’ll be cheaper to run.

Chest freezers will save you money

OK, the good part – saving money. There are three ways that the humble chest freezer will help out in this department :

Cheaper to buy : as they’re less common, they’re usually cheaper to buy. If cash is really tight, grab a second-hand one from a repairer, the classified ads or online auction sites like eBay. They last for years.

Cheaper to run : chances are you won’t be lifting the lid quite as often (there’s less temptation to just stand there thinking ‘now, what do I want‘ with a chest freezer – they’re practical things), and the freezer won’t lose as much of the cold each time. Lower electricity bills.

Cheaper to fill : the wide, open space of a chest freezer actually encourages you to buy larger items (which are often cheaper, incidentally) and store them for a long time *. Rather than single-serve tubs of ice-cream, you’ll be filling it those enormous fish you caught over the weekend.

* to find out what you can freeze, and how long it will last, check out Part I of this article.

Final thoughts on Chest Freezers

Whether you’re buying seafood, fruits and vegetables, game or just a few steaks for the coming weeks – a chest freezer is a great investment. And finally, you’ll have somewhere to put that enormous turkey for a couple of weeks.

Defrosting

The whole point of freezing, of course, is to keep food until you’re ready to use it. Before it reaches the oven/pan/grill, however, there’s one crucial step – defrosting.

Defrosting simply puts the food back in the state (or as close to it as possible) it was in before you put it in the freezer. It’s ready to cook, if you like.

Foods that don’t require defrosting

Before we look at the many ways to defrost foods, here are a couple of quick exceptions. These foods can be cooked directly from their frozen state, or even eaten as-is.

Most vegetables : the vast majority of vegetables can simply be thrown into a pot of boiling water (or popped into the microwave) in their frozen state. Notable exceptions are mushrooms, which like to be given a bit of time to thaw out. Just leave them in the fridge for a couple of hours before using them.

Bread : somewhat surprisingly, bread can be cooked directly from frozen. For things like baguettes, just wrap them in foil and pop them in the oven; for toast, well, just put the frozen slices straight into the toaster.

Various ways to defrost foods

On a tray, in the fridge : this is the preferred method of defrosting most items – particularly meat and fish. Place the frozen item on a tray or plate (to catch the juices) and put it in the bottom of the fridge. Just in case.

Time : this will take up to 6 hours for smaller pieces of meat and fish; and up to 1-2 days for larger joints (about 24 hrs / lb). Whole animals (say, frozen turkeys) are a little quicker – around 24 hrs / 5 lb.

NB : I realise that this is an extremely long time to wait, but it’s worth the effort. If you cook partially frozen meat, it’ll be cooked on the outside while the inside is still raw.

In a large bowl of water : if a day or two sounds prohibitive, an alternative method is to place the frozen item in a plastic bag, and completely submerge in a large bowl of water (if necessary, just weigh it down with a plate and the nearest heavy object). To make sure the water stays fairly cold, change it every 30 minutes or so.

Time : about 30 mins / lb .

NB : A common way to defrost items like prawns is to sit them under a running tap for a while. Not only does this waste an incredible amount of water; the prawns lose quite a bit of their flavour. Just let them sit in the fridge for a time.

In the microwave : if you’re really pressed for time, look no further than the microwave (most of them now have dedicated settings for defrosting, based on the weight of the food).

Time : this varies quite a bit from machine to machine, and also with the size and type of food. For most things though, you’re looking at half an hour or less.

Final thoughts on defrosting foods

In general, allow foods to thaw out as slowly as possible. This will allow them return to their pre-frozen state – or as close to it as you can get.

Once foods have partially defrosted, avoid the temptation to put them back in the freezer. A bag of frozen peas will easily survive the trip home from the supermarket; but a steak that’s been thawing in the fridge for 6 hours won’t be happy if you suddenly decide you want fish instead.

This has been the second part of The Ultimate Guide to Freezing Food. You can check out the first part – which details the freezing techniques for a number of foods – here.

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Is it more expensive to be green?

Scott Bird — Mon, 12 Nov 2007 05:38:23 +0000

Yesterday I came across a comment to an environmental story which seems to sum up a very popular opinion – namely that it costs money to ‘go green‘. It said :

‘My biggest gripe with “going green” and all the nonsense that comes with it is that it costs so much money to be “green,” causing the larger majority of people to be unable to help out environmentally.’

Personally, I don’t agree with this at all. In fact, living an environmentally-conscious lifestyle can actually save you money. How?

I’m glad you asked.

What does ‘going green’ actually mean?

Before we dive into the many cost-effective ways of living la vita verde, let’s take a quick look at what is meant by ‘going green‘. Quite simply, it’s having a minimal impact on the environment; while you live your life.

There are a number of ways to do this, and save money at the same time.

Use energy and water efficient appliances

Whenever you’re in the market for a major appliance (anything from a washing machine to a television), get the most energy-efficient and water-efficient one you can afford. Although it may cost a bit more to begin with, you’ll save money every time you use it.

Improve the efficiency of the car you already have

No matter where you stand on the ‘cars vs global warming‘ debate, you’re probably interested in saving a bit of cash. Fortunately, there are a number of ways to do this using the car you already have – regardless of what it is.

This article goes into a little more detail, but a few quick suggestions :

Reduce the weight. If you’re carrying stuff ‘just in case‘ (such as roof racks, spare jackets or a pile of extra sauces from your last trip to McDonalds), leave it at home until you need it. If you spend a fair bit of time on the road, this alone will make a noticeable difference.

Use a higher gear. By always using the highest gear possible (as long as you’re going fast enough – trying to take off in 3rd isn’t such a good idea), you’ll be saving fuel. Avoiding unnecessary idling will also help.

Keep it clean. Apart from appearance, there’s good reason to keep your car clean. Getting rid of rubbish will reduce the weight, and cleaning the outside will make it more slippery (less drag, less fuel). Small differences to be sure, but they add up.

Reduce consumption

Last week I looked at 5 ways to reduce the number of plastic bags, glass jars and other types of packaging you may have around the kitchen. Now it’s time to think about the rest of the house.

There are several contenders here for financial savings, including :

Lower your electricity bills. There are many, many ways to conserve electricity – which can have a big impact at bill time. In general, though, simply switching things off when you’re not using them will make quite a difference.

Use less water. Water is great to drink – in fact, most people don’t drink enough. However, when it comes to using it everywhere else (for washing, the garden and the pool); it’s easy to waste it. Try not to use more than you need – after all, it isn’t free.

Only buy things you need. It’s easy to fall into the consumer mindset (and a quick glance at my bank statements tells me I was there for a number of years), and buy every shiny new thing that comes along. If you can cut down on this a little, your wallet will definitely thank you.

Purchase goods locally when reasonable

If given a choice between filling their car just down the road or driving interstate first, most people would go for the local option. When it comes to buying things from a store, that logic still applies. Some goods simply have to travel further than others, and that transport costs money.

Whenever you’re faced with a choice of two similar products – one of which was produced locally, and one which was imported – go with the local one.

Grow your own food

When I was quite young (probably 3 or 4), I was wandering around a large garden with my grandfather. Every few metres he would stop, pick something off a nearby plant, and eat it. Magical.

Creating a garden like this isn’t actually that difficult to do. There are thousands of plants that are cheap, quick and easy to grow; and certainly edible. What’s more, home-grown food always seems to taste better. Nice and fresh.

To get things started, pop down to the garden centre and grab some beans, tomatoes or herbs (if you recognise the name, get it – they’re all nice and easy to grow). Plant them, add a bit of water every day or two; and sit back. In a few months you’ll have your own fresh supply of colourful, easily recognisable food. Beautiful.

NB : I can see a few of you shaking your heads. These things are almost impossible to kill – particularly beans. Give it a shot.

Recycle, and use recycled items

Depending on where you live, you may or may not be used to recycling. Many countries have structured recycling schemes in place, where paper, glass, plastics etc are collected regularly in bins or special bags.

One aspect of recycling that’s often overlooked, however, is the repurposing of items within the household; or within the community. This is just a matter of thinking about the possible functions of an object – rather than the original intended use.

The next time you need to stack things out in the yard, grab an old bookshelf; need a bucket, use a paint tin; turn an old laptop into a portable video player. OK, perhaps I’m showing my inner-geek there; but you get the idea. Be inventive.

Minimise household waste

It’s garbage collection day here, so I’m definitely mindful of this one. Reducing the amount of stuff you throw out not only makes your life easier, it saves money. After all, someone has to pay for it (even if it’s indirectly).

This is actually quite easy to do. In fact, if you’ve already started doing the things above; you may notice a difference the next time trash day comes around. Just in case, here are a few other things you can do :

Construct a compost bin or worm farm. Both can be a great ways to get rid of most of the organic matter.

Buy items with less packaging. Although this one can apply to almost everything, the simplest place to begin is in the supermarket. If it’s something that doesn’t really need that extra bag, can be easily carried as-is or doesn’t require any sort of packaging at all (say, a piece of fruit); get it. Less packaging often equals lower cost.

Give it away. There a number of items which you may no longer want, and fall somewhere inbetween the ‘let’s sell this on eBay‘ and ‘where’s the bin?‘ ideas. In these cases, just give it to a local charity.

NB : Before you say ‘nobody would want this‘, think twice – if you were living on the streets, or in very basic accommodation; would you want it?

Final thoughts on the cost of ‘going green‘

As you can see, being environmentally-conscious doesn’t need to be expensive – in fact, you’ll often be saving money. Nor does it have to be difficult or time-consuming.

Perfect.

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5 Ways To Reduce Packaging In Your Grocery shopping

Scott Bird — Mon, 05 Nov 2007 02:40:12 +0000

One of the simplest ways to be kind to both your wallet and the environment is to reduce the amount of packaging you collect. Ultimately, less wrapping equals lower costs for everything you buy. Definitely a good thing.

Here are 5 simple ways to cut down packaging in one of the key areas of your life (mine, at least – I love to eat) – grocery shopping.

Grow your own food, wherever possible (and desirable). Not only are there health, cost and taste benefits; it doesn’t need to be wrapped in plastic prior to purchase.
Buy food from individual suppliers whenever it’s reasonable to do so. Meat from the local butcher, fish from the fishmonger and so on. You’re much more likely to get exactly what you want, at about the same price; and with far less packaging.
Make use of the heavier, reusable shopping bags when available. This undoubtedly varies from country to country, but re-usable bags are commonly seen in stores here (usually free, or available for a nominal fee). No more stockpiling plastic bags.
Only accept a bag when you really need one. If you’re just buying a single, small item; put it in your pocket (after paying for it, that is) rather than take yet another plastic bag.
Re-use glass bottles. Have a go at brewing your own beer. Make your own jams and preserves. Experiment with flavoured olive oil (start with chili and garlic – mmm). Throw the empties in the bin (recycling, of course) only as a last resort.

No matter how hard you try, however, some things will always require one form of packaging or another. In these cases, try to stick to those things which can easily be broken down (in a worm farm or compost bin) or recycled. Unwaxed paper, cardboard and glass are the simplest.

These few small changes can have a real impact on your grocery bills. Give them a try.

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The Ultimate Guide to Freezing Food

Scott Bird — Sun, 04 Nov 2007 05:17:34 +0000

Chances are that when you buy a new refrigerator, the freezer just comes along for the ride. It’s a part of the kitchen that most people don’t spend much time thinking about.

It can be, however, an extremely efficient tool for putting aside excess food for later use. If you enjoy saving time when preparing your evening meal; being able to add fruit to your breakfast all through the year; or just love the idea of having home-made sorbet on hand whenever you like – read on.

The basics of freezing

No matter what type of food you’re freezing, there are several basic guidelines that will make your life easier, and help you get the best results. These are :

Freezing can retain quality, but not increase it. Begin with good quality food.
Try to prevent air coming in contact with the food, and moisture from escaping. Both of these will dry things out, and can ‘burn‘ them in many cases.
Freeze foods as quickly as possible. This will minimise the size of ice crystals that will form, limiting the damage to the food when thawed.
Foods should be slightly undercooked when frozen if they are to be reheated when thawed.
Only put as much food in the freezer as will freeze within the next 24 hours or so (usually about 2-3lb per cubic foot).
Rather than freezing spices, add them just prior to serving a meal. They can change colour and flavour when frozen.
Label things so you know when they were frozen, and when to take them out.

How to freeze vegetables

Most vegetables freeze quite well (they’ll happily stay frozen for several months). Where possible, use the youngest and most tender of those available.

Here’s what’s involved :

Preparation

Clean the vegetables to remove as much dirt as possible.
Trim them, removing any unwanted stalks and leaves.
Cut them into bite-size portions.

Blanching

Many vegetables contain a number of enzymes which cause them to lose their colour and flavour when frozen. Blanching (putting the vegetables briefly in boiling water) stops these enzymes from acting.

To blanch the vegetables, set up a pan of boiling water beside a bowl of ice water. Using a slotted spoon, put a small handful of vegetables into the boiling water for a couple of minutes*, then transfer it to the ice water (to stop it cooking). Pat it dry, and put it aside. Repeat with the rest.

* times vary, so here are the recommended blanching times for a number of common vegetables :

Vegetable	Blanching time
Asparagus	Wash, sort by size. Snap off tough ends. Blanch for 2-3 min.
Beans	Wash. Trim ends. Cut if desired.Blanch for 2-3 min.
Beetroot	Wash. Remove tops, leaving about an inch. Cook until tender (25–30 min for small beets; 45-50 for large ones). Cool promptly, peel, trim tap root and stem. Cut into slices or cubes. Pack into freezer containers.
Broccoli	Wash. Trim leaves. Cut into pieces. Blanch for 3 min.
Brussels sprouts	Wash. Remove outer leaves. Blanch for 4-5 min.
Cabbage	Wash. Discard course outer leaves. If shredded, blanch for about 1.5 min. For wedges, blanch for 3-4 min.
Carrots	Wash, peel and trim. Cut if desired. Blanch for 2 min (small carrots) – 5 min (large ones).
Cauliflower	Discard leaves and stem, wash. Break into flowerets or leave small heads whole. Add 1 tbsp vinegar to water, and blanch for 6 min.
Corn on the cob	Remove husks and silks. Trim ends. Blanch medium-sized ears for 8 min. Wrap ears individually in plastic wrap or freezer bags.
Eggplant	Wash, peel, slice 1/3 inch thick. Blanch for 4 min in water containing a tablespoon of citric acid or lemon juice.
Herbs	Wash. Snip or leave on stalks. For basil only, blanch for a minute. For other herbs, blanching is not necessary. Freeze in a single layer on trays or baking sheets.
Mushrooms	Wipe with damp paper towel. Trim. May be frozen without blanching.

Once all the vegetables have been blanched and cooled, pack them straight into containers or bags. Alternatively, lay them out on baking sheets / trays and freeze them like this (put them into containers or bags later – they’ll fit better, and can be easily broken up).

How long will they last?

Frozen vegetables will generally last for 3-6 months.

Cooking with frozen vegetables

Frozen vegetables can generally be cooked when still frozen (no defrosting required), although some leafy greens are easier to separate when thawed a little.

To boil them, use about 1/2 cup of water for every 2 cups of vegetables (the rest is already in the ice). Steaming and microwaving are also good options.

How to freeze fruit

When it comes to freezing fruit, different types are treated in different ways. Before we get into specifics, here are a few general guidelines :

Berries do well when frozen straight after harvesting. Apples, plums and peaches may need to wait a few days before hitting the freezer.
Small whole fruits (such as cherries) can be frozen on trays for later use in salads, drinks and garnishes.
Most fruits can be happily frozen for 8-12 months. Citrus fruits and juices should only be kept 4-6 months.

The general process for freezing fruit is to clean, trim and slice it; place it on trays or hard containers, and cover it with a mild syrup to prevent it from going brown. The specific steps for a number of common fruits are listed below, but first : the anti-browning syrup.

Preventing the fruit from going brown

If the fruit is likely to darken when frozen (see table below), simply cover the pieces with ascorbic acid or citrus juice (in the case of firm fruits, they can even be steamed). To do this :

Ascorbic acid : this can usually be purchased from pharmacies or supermarkets. If you’re unable to find any, just crush up a couple of Vitamin C tablets and add a little water.

Citrus juice : although this isn’t quite as effective as the ascorbic acid, it definitely helps. Add a few tablespoons of juice to a quart of cold water, and soak the fruit pieces in it for a minute or two. Afterwards, pat them dry, put them in the containers and cover them with sugar, syrup, water or fruit juice.

Packing

Prior to freezing, the fruit is ‘packed‘ or placed into containers and covered with acid, syrup, water, fruit juice or sugar. This prevents the fruit from losing quality whilst frozen – when thawed it should be identical to a freshly picked piece.

Common methods of packing include :

Syrup pack : a 30% syrup (a third sugar, the rest water) is recommended for most fruits (very sour fruits may need a little more sugar). When the syrup is cold, pour about 1/2 cup into the container. Add the fruit, and then cover with the syrup. Make sure to leave a bit of space at the top of the container (it’ll expand slightly).

Sugar pack : sprinkle a little sugar over the fruit, and mix gently with a large spoon. The sugar will help to draw the excess juice out of the fruit.

Once again, make sure there’s a bit of room at the top of the container.

Unsweetened pack : use water (with ascorbic acid if necessary) to cover the fruit. Allow some headspace for expansion.

Tray pack : spread small, whole fruits out in single layers on trays or baking sheets. Once frozen, repack them into bags or containers and put back in the freezer.

As they’re already frozen, there’s no need to allow for expansion in the containers.

The process itself

Details of the process for common fruits are :

Fruit	Preparation
Apples	Wash, peel, core, and cut into pie slices. Cover with ascorbic acid.
Apricots, Peaches and Nectarines	Wash in cold water and sort. Dip apricots or nectarines in boiling water until skins loosen, about 15 to 20 seconds. Chill, peel, halve and remove stones. Pack with syrup (above).
Bananas	Peel and mash thoroughly. Add 1/2 teaspoon ascorbic acid or lemon juice per cup of mashed banana. Package, seal, and freeze.
Berries	Wash and sort. Pack in syrup.
Cherries	Wash, sort, stem, and pit. Pack in syrup; add ½ teaspoon ascorbic acid.
Citrus Fruit	Wash, peel, section or slice fruit. Add ¼ teaspoon ascorbic acid to some sugar, and sprinkle over each layer. Let stand in refrigerator until fruit forms its own juice. Stir gently, and freeze.
Cranberries	Wash, sort and pack without sugar.
Currants (use large varieties where possible)	Wash in cold water and sort. Pack in sugar using 1 cup sugar to 8-9 cups fruit. For cooking, pack dry without sugar.
Gooseberries	Wash and sort. Pack without sugar or syrup or mix berries and sugar called for in pie recipe.
Melons	Wash. Cut flesh into ½- to ¾-inch cubes or balls. Cover with sugar syrup, using 2 cups sugar to 1 quart water. Serve partially frozen.
Pineapple	Peel and core. Dice, slice or cut into wedges. Cover with syrup.
Rhubarb	Remove leaves and woody ends, wash and cut in 1-inch lengths. Do not blanch. Pack with sugar.
Strawberries	Wash, sort and stem. Pack whole, sliced, or crushed berries in a light syrup.
Tomatoes	Cook completely (boil) prior to freezing.

How to freeze nuts

Most nuts (whether whole or chopped, shells or not) freeze quite well. To do this, simply double-bag them in freezer bags; and pop them in the freezer.

They’ll keep for around 6 months.

Do the nuts need to be defrosted prior to use?

This varies according to the way you intend to use them. For dishes that are going to be heated in any case (such as stir fries), using them frozen is fine.

If you’re going to eat them as they are (say you’re sprinkling them on ice-cream), thaw them a little first. They’ll taste better.

How to freeze meats

Whilst the frozen vegetables, fruit and nuts are all great to have; for most people the core of their freezer use centres around meat. After all, this is where the big financial savings come in (more on that in part II).

Although freezing meat is a fairly straightforward process, there are a few things to keep in mind :

Freezing meat doesn’t magically reverse spoiling. Make sure the meat is fresh to begin with.
If you’ve ever tried to separate a couple of pieces of frozen meat, you’ll know just how frustrating it can be. If you’re putting two or more pieces in the same bag or container, place a couple of sheets of freezer paper between them.
Game meats should be dressed and cleaned as soon as possible after shooting. There is no need to stuff them before freezing.
Label things with the date by which they should be used.

The general process

To freeze meat, simply :

Trim fat and remove unnecessary bones
Cut into meal-sized portions
Place into freezer bags, plastic containers or wrap in foil or freezer paper (make sure to separate pieces with paper or foil)
Place in the freezer for desired time (maximum storage times listed below)

Nice and simple.

How long will it last?

Meats vary a little; depending on type, whether they’re cooked or not and the amount of liquid in them. Here are a few suggested times :

Type	Time
Large cuts of meat (such as steaks)	6-12 months
Ground or minced meat	3 months
Cooked meats	1-2 months
Bacon and cured hams	1 month
Hotdogs, lunchmeats and shaved meats	1-2 weeks

NB : For meats bought at the supermarket, they’re probably already packed in some form. Before freezing them, cut them to size (one piece per meal) and repack them. This will get rid of the excess gases and fluids which were present when purchased.

Freezing Seafood

Seafood can certainly be frozen, and fresh seafood freezes well. A few points to keep in mind :

Freeze the seafood as soon as possible after it’s caught
Whole fish should be gutted and cleaned
Once frozen, take out of the freezer, dip in water and put back in (this forms a protective coating)
Smoked fish tastes slightly salty after freezing
Freeze small fish whole, and cut larger fish into steaks prior to freezing
All varieties of seafood can be frozen (for specifics, see the table below)

Freezing seafood other than fish

There are many, many varieties of seafood available – and several ways to freeze it. The following table lists the process for several common items.

Food	Process
Lobster	Cook in salted, boiling water for 8-10 min. Place in bags or containers, and cover with brine. Freeze. To use, boil for another 8-10 minutes (from frozen).
Scallops	Rinse well to remove sand and shell. Drain, place in bags or containers and cover with brine; freeze.
Clams and Mussels	Rinse well. Steam until opened, and remove shells. Cover with brine and freeze.
Prawns	The shells can be left on. Simply put them in containers, cover with water and pop them in the freezer.
Squid and Octopus	Freezing actually tenderises the meat. Clean and gut them, place in an airtight bag and throw them in.
Oysters	Rinse well. Shuck, cover with their own liquid and freeze. NB : Oysters can also be frozen invidually (in their own liquid) in ice-cube trays.

How long does it last?

Most fish will last for a few months or more. Here’s the breakdown :

Food	Time
Oily fish	Up to 3 months
Smoked fish	Up to 3 months
Other fish	Up to 6 months
Oysters	Up to 6 months
Prawns	Up to 3 months
Squid and Octopus	Up to 3 months

Freezing Pastries

Most pastries freeze extremely well (my own freezer is generally filled with them). A few things to keep in mind :

Custard and cream don’t freeze terribly well (they both soak into the base). If you’re planning to add some, wait until you’re ready to eat it.
Meringue toppings tend to toughen during freezing. As with the cream, add it just before serving.
Sheets of pastry are notoriously difficult to separate when frozen. Make sure there’s a sheet of freezer paper between each one.

Overall, it’s a straightforward process. Place individual items in bags or plastic containers; and stack sheets with freezer paper between each.

Both cooked and uncooked pastry can be frozen.

How long does it last?

Pastry generally keeps well. A few approximate times :

Food	Time
Baked pastries with fruit fillings	3-4 months
Baked pastry (plain)	2-3 months
Unbaked pastry	6-8 weeks
Pumpkin pie	4-5 weeks

What not to freeze

Foods that do not freeze well include :

mayonnaise
cream puddings and fillings
custard
gelatin salads
cheese
the whites of hard-cooked eggs and uncooked egg yolks
gravies made with wheat flour
spices

Final thoughts on freezing food

Freezing food can be a great way to save money, make sure your favourites are available all year and cut down on food waste. Leftovers are often ready for re-use in another form.

As far as food safety is concerned, freezing food – for any length of time – is safe to eat. The various ‘best before‘ times noted above simply refer to the flavours and appearance of the food.

This has been the first part of The Ultimate Guide to Freezing Food. Keep an eye out for the second part – which looks at the aspects of saving money and defrosting – next week.

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10 Ways To Make Your Halloween Environmentally-Friendly

Scott Bird — Mon, 22 Oct 2007 02:33:10 +0000

Halloween (aka All Hallows’ Eve, or All Saints’ Eve) can be a great occasion. Of course, as with any major event there’s a bit of cleaning up involved the following morning.

Here are just a few of the ways (10, to be exact) you can make your Halloween more environmentally friendly, and spend more of that clean-up time in bed. Perfect.

When trick-or-treating

Walk from house to house : Leave the car at home. It’s really that simple.
Make your own trick-or-treat candy : There are plenty of Halloween recipes available both online and in books. Experiment, have fun and save money in the process.
Take canvas bags or pillow cases : Sure, there are plastic bags available for doing this; but why not keep things simple? Grab a few canvas bags or pillow cases from around the house, and just throw ‘em in the wash afterwards.
Make your own latex rubber masks : This is not only a great project for the kids, it’s a cost-effective way to go about things. What’s more, it can be a whole lotta fun.
Make a costume from old clothes : When combined with the ‘make your own latex mask‘ project above, this one turns recycling into an art form. Besides, do you really want to look the same as everyone who buys a disposable one from a local store?

For Halloween parties

Send invitations via email : Rather than making up (or purchasing) paper invitations for your Halloween party, invite people electronically. Send out emails, text messages, build a website – whatever seems appropriate for those involved. Or just go out and talk to them personally.
Reinvigorate old party games : Try bobbing for apples, or pin-the-tail-on-the-donkey. Not only will you save money, you’ll save preparation time and people will have just as much fun.
Use re-usable cutlery and crockery : No matter where your party is, why not add a touch of class by using ‘proper’ cutlery and crockery instead of disposables. Much cheaper, and easy enough to clean. There’ll also be considerably less garbage to put out the following day.
Put leftover food scraps in a worm farm : As pointed out earlier, worms will eat just about anything. Including pumpkin.
Re-use Halloween decorations : many of the Halloween decorations around the house can be easily kept and reused next year (a few small changes will make sure they actually look quite different). Think of it as recycling.

Final thoughts on having an environmentally-friendly Halloween

As you can see, having a ‘green‘ Halloween isn’t exactly hard work. Go out and have fun.

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Worm farming : What do Worms Eat?

Scott Bird — Sun, 21 Oct 2007 23:29:06 +0000

Now that many of you are considering setting up your first worm farm, you may be wondering just what they eat. After all, isn’t that the point of the exercise – getting rid of stuff you don’t want, in return for nutritious soil for the garden?

Here’s a look at just what’ll it takes to make them happy. It’s easier than you might expect.

From the kitchen

Vegetable scraps and peelings : For many people (myself included), this is the big one. Any sort of vegetable matter is fine – those peas that your kids tried to hide under their knife, potato peelings; leftover pumpkin (though why there’s any left over is beyond me – I love the stuff).
Coffee grounds, tea bags and tea leaves : As a regular drinker of both coffee and tea, this one’s fantastic. Let the coffee grounds, tea bags and tea leaves cool down a little; then just pour them in. Worms love them.
Egg shells : Think of these as roughage for the worms. They’ll chomp through a few of them quite happily; just don’t get carried away.
NB : The worms will thank you if you crush the egg shells a little before you throw them in to the farm.
Small amounts of unwaxed paper : This one alone makes life that much easier. As the worms really don’t mind eating small amounts of paper, things like the tea bags mentioned above are no problem at all. No need to try and break them down – just throw the whole lot in.
You can even put in small amounts of cardboard. Just soak it in a bit of water first, to make it easier for the worms to break down. Leftover pizza cartons? Perfect.
Hair : worms will eat small amounts of hair. I’m talking about the amount that’s wrapped around your hairbrush, not the sweepings from your local barber shop.
Soil and leaves : garden waste such as soil and leaves certainly can be added to a worm farm. However, given the amount of space these things often take up, a compost bin is often a better option. More on that later.

Try to avoid

Citrus fruit peelings : These are quite acidic, and don’t fall under the heading of ‘Foods the Worms Enjoy‘.
Onions, tomatoes and chilies : As with the citrus fruit peelings, these are quite acidic.
Meat, bones and animal fat : Although the worms will probably eat these things, they’ll attract unwanted insects and rodents to your worm farm. Best avoided.
Waxed or glossy paper : Don’t panic if a small amount of glossy paper ends up in the worm farm. There are, however, much better options for getting rid of it. Keep an eye out for the compost and recycling articles.
Dairy products : Think of the worms as vegans. Dairy really isn’t their thing.

The worms will eat all of these things, but slowly and reluctantly. Avoid them when you can.

From the yard

Dog poo : This one’s interesting. If you’ve got dogs, you know the routine. Cleaning up after them is all part of the fun.
There’s good news and bad news here. The good news is that worms will happily eat this stuff. Really. They’ll be as happy as pigs in … well, you get the idea.

The bad news is that it’s not a good idea to put the dog poo in with your regular worm farm – especially if you’re putting the resultant casts on your vegetable garden. Separate worm farms are advisable – one for vegetable matter and one for the dog poo.

The casts from the vegetable matter one are great for the vegetable garden; the dog poo one supplies fertiliser for all of the plants you don’t eat.

A Final Thought on Food for Worms

Worm farms are a great way to convert much of your kitchen waste into stuff you can actually use – fertiliser for your gardens. Your plants will thank you for it.

If you’re wondering just what to do with the things in the ‘try to avoid’ section above, keep an eye out for Becky’s upcoming articles on composting. Rest assured, there’s a place for everything.

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Kitchen Essentials : Stocking a New Kitchen – What to Get

Scott Bird — Sun, 21 Oct 2007 05:48:39 +0000

This is the third part of the Kitchen Essentials series (part I, part II). Whether you’re stocking a new kitchen or just updating a few things, this is a great place to start.

When you’re moving out of home for the first time, performing a major kitchen overhaul or rebuilding following less-than-ideal circumstances; stocking a kitchen can be a daunting task. Fortunately, with a bit of careful purchasing, it can also be a very rewarding one.

If you’re starting from scratch, the following will get you well underway. I’ve separated the lists so that they can be used even if you’re only looking at one or two aspects. On to the good part :

Whitegoods

The large items are perhaps obvious, but when you’re estimating the total cost, make sure to include the following :

Refrigerator
Freezer (either standalone or as part of the ‘fridge‘)
Dishwasher

Things to consider :

Buy the most energy-efficient and water-efficient appliances you can afford. Although they usually cost a little more to begin with; they’ll save you a massive amount of money over the years.
All of the above appliances work most efficiently when full (this doesn’t mean packed to the point of overflowing, just free from large, open spaces. Getting the right size for your needs will also save you money in the long run.
When possible, allow a little room around the appliance (especially at the back and over the top) for airflow. Once again, this will increase the appliances’ efficiency and keep more cash in your pocket.

Major appliances and gadgets

In the same vein as the whitegoods above, these are fairly obvious (but important to budget for, all the same). The big ones are :

Oven
Stovetop (aka range, hob, hotplates and a number of other things)
Electric BBQ
Microwave oven
Food processor
Blender
Bread maker

Things to consider :

Both the food processor and bread machine were discussed briefly in the article ‘7 Essential Kitchen Gadgets‘ – including costs.
Items such as the ‘Electric BBQ’ will depend upon your style of cooking. Personally, I use mine on a regular basis during the warmer part of the year.
The oven, stovetop and microwave all benefit from the same energy-efficiency arguments noted above. By buying the most efficient appliances you can afford, you’ll save a considerable amount over the long term.

Cutlery and Crockery

How many knives do you need? How many forks? How many spoons? What about sporks, chopsticks, corn holders and the myriad of occasional use items?

The simplest way to begin is to purchase a complete set – these are generally pretty close to the number you need. As long as there are knives and forks for a minimum of 4 people, you’ll be fine.

The same idea applies to purchasing crockery. Sets of 4 are the norm, and extra pieces are usually available individually.

Things to consider :

When buying knives and forks, look for sets catering for a minimum of 4 people. If there are an odd number of people in your household, buy cutlery for this number plus one.
If you’re only looking for crockery for 1 or 2 people, charity stores are often a good bet. After all, why buy a set of four when you don’t need it?

Tools

There is an incredible array of gadgets available to open, slice, core, mince and reshape almost any type of food you choose to work with. In many cases these can be purchased on an ‘as needed‘ basis (and after living without them for a while, you may find that the ‘need‘ disappears.

There are, however, a few items that will make life easier right from the start. These are :

can opener
bottle opener
ladle
strainer
kitchen knife

Everything else can wait for now. Keep your money in your pocket.

Things to consider :

I seem to have collected hundreds of these items over the years, and I can honestly say that most of them rarely see the light of day. The above list, however, is used on a daily basis.
The other items often found with these are generally found near the checkouts of kitchenware stores. Be strong.
One good quality knife is often all you’ll need (see the Knife Buyer’s Guide)

Glassware, cups and mugs

I don’t know about you, but most of my glasses, cups and mugs were either free or extremely cheap. This doesn’t mean that they are poor quality or acquired through nefarious means; simply that this doesn’t need to be an expensive part of the kitchen.

When it comes to acquiring glassware and cups without breaking the bank, try these :

Ask for specific sets as wedding, birthday and christmas presents
Keep an eye out for the handing out of ‘freebies’ in offices and large public areas
Buy bulk lots (including a few pieces you want) at auctions, market stalls and garage sales – resell the remaining items on eBay
Watch out for giveaways at pubs and clubs; these often include glassware
Buy alcoholic ‘gift sets’ of a bottle and glass/es the day after holidays; they’ll often be back to the price of the bottle itself

If – after trying these – you find that you still want a piece or two, there are several inexpensive places to check out. These include :

catering shops (specifically those that supply glassware to pubs and clubs) : as you can imagine, the glassware here is usually very reasonably priced
local auctions, markets and garage sales : re-wrapping and packing glasses can lose its novelty value in a hurry, so it’s often possible to purchase large sets at budget prices
charity stores : these seem to specialise in incomplete sets (one or two pieces has already been broken), with matching prices – great places to shop

Things to consider :

As with the cutlery and crockery, glassware, cups and mugs are often sold in sets designed for either 4 or 6 people. Keep this in mind when asking for sets as presents – they’re not always inexpensive.

Pots ‘n’ pans

For me, this is where the fun really begins. As with most things, I prefer a small gathering of quality items to a large set of things I’ll never use. The following will keep you in good stead for most dishes :

frying pan
wok
a saucepan or two (with lids)
stockpot (with lid)

These can be used for most things – anything else can be easily purchased on an ‘as required‘ basis.

Things to consider :

Large sets may seem like a simple way to go, but they’re not always cheaper. Shop around, and take a look at the cost of individual items.
The heating method and surface may determine the type of materials you use. For example, induction cooktops require the pots and pans to be magnetic. Iron is common.

Manchester

I’m not talking about interior design here. In fact, all you really need are tea-towels (think of the number you’ll need, and triple it) and oven mits. Everything else can wait for now (unless there’s a special occasion coming up, of course).

Things to consider :

I’ve got a restaurant mentality when it comes to tea-towels. I generally get a large quantity of identical, simple towels and use them once each (before washing, that is). Stores such as Ikea are great for items such as this.

Oven mitts are not always considered essential items, but I’ve always used them regularly. On that basis alone, it’s worth buying them right at the start.

Personal favourites : the single mits that are connected with a wide strap of the same material (the picture will show you what I mean). The first time you take a large dish out of the oven, you’ll understand why.

Herbs

I grow my herbs outdoors (as part of a compact vegetable garden), but most of them are equally happy indoors. Growing them is pretty straightforward (plants + soil + water + light), and can really make a difference to your kitchen. As well as the constant availability of fresh herbs, you’ve got the aromatic benefits of plants such as mint. Beautiful.

Things to consider :

The easier it is to get to the herbs, the more likely they are to end up being used. Keep them nearby when possible.
Most herbs are pretty easy to grow – however they generally don’t like being regularly smoked and covered with hot oil. Put them next to a window rather than right beside the stove.

Spices

There’s more to the spice rack than simply salt and pepper – at least there can be. Your perfect spice collection just depends on the type of food you prefer, but here are a few that should keep you going for quite some time :

Salt and pepper
Nutmeg, Cinnamon and Cloves
Turmeric, Chili Powder, Paprika and Cumin

The following are often found in the same section of your local supermarket, although they’re not actually spices :

Coriander, Parsley, Rosemary, Oregano, Basil, Mint, Tarragon and Thyme
Dill, Fennel, Marjoram and Saffron
Mustard, Poppy and Sesame seeds
Ginger
Lemon
Garlic
Vanilla beans

As I mentioned above, feel free to alter (or reduce) this list to fit in with your own tastes.

Things to consider :

These will actually cost quite a bit when first purchased, but they’ll last you for months.
You may decide to grow several of the above items yourself. This is definitely the way to go.

Condiments

Sauces, preserves and jellies can be fun to make (as you may have guessed, I spend a fair bit of time in the kitchen). If, however, you prefer to spend your time doing other things; there are plenty to choose from.

Still, if you are going to buy them, why not cut down the number and get the good stuff. Buy 3 of the ones you’ve always wanted to try, rather than 6 of the things you always get.

Things to consider :

Condiments are designed to enhance the food, not alter it completely. Taste the food without the sauce, and you’ll really appreciate the difference.
Many of these items can be purchased in bulk, at greatly reduced prices (larger containers, designed for use in restaurants, pubs and cafes).

Foundation foods

If you’ve just finished moving or building your house, the idea of your perfect meal is probably something in a big red bucket. However, once normal life resumes, include the following on one of your first shopping lists :

large joints of meat you can freeze : when you get these home, just cut them up into meal-sized portions, bag them and throw them into the freezer
bags of frozen berries : berries are great for hundreds of things, such as cereal, pancakes, smoothies, muffins and desserts (healthy, of course). buy them in bulk, keep them in the freezer and enjoy a little luxury without spending a fortune (they’re much cheaper this way)
spices and condiments : grab a few of the ones noted above – in bulk, where possible
bakers’ flour and yeast : that fresh bread smell just can’t be beaten
tea and coffee : although I usually have at least 7 varieties of tea in the cupboard (yes, I drink a lot of the stuff); one is probably enough to begin with
frozen vegetables : although it’s great to spend hours preparing elaborate meals, sometimes this just isn’t possible (or desirable). To make it easy to have a reasonably healthy meal ready in a short time, grab a couple of bags of pre-cut frozen vegetables. A short spin in the microwave is all they’ll need.

For everything else, you can just buy it on an ‘as needed‘ (or ‘as desired‘) basis. Fresh fish, root vegetables and so on.

Final thoughts on Stocking a New Kitchen

The kitchen is still my favourite room in the house, and is likely to remain in pole position. Stocking a new one is a great opportunity to set things up just the way you like them.

Enjoy.

This is the third part of the Kitchen Essentials series. If you missed the first two parts, here they are :

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5 Ways to Save Money With Your Kettle

Scott Bird — Mon, 15 Oct 2007 06:27:31 +0000

Ready to save some more money on your bills? Great. You’ve come to the right place.

This week I’ll be taking a look a 5 simple ways to use your kettle more efficiently.

If you drink as much tea as I do, that’s definitely a good thing.

Why pick on the lowly kettle?

The kettle is an extremely common appliance – in many countries, almost everyone will have at least one. It’s also used on a regular basis; often several times per day.

In terms of energy efficiency, however, it isn’t exactly the best around. A typical kettle draws an astonishing 3kW of power. To give you an idea of just how much this is, here’s a look at how other common appliances stack up :

computer – 100 W
vacuum – 200 W
blender – 300 W
dishwasher – 1,200 W
kettle – 3,000 W

As you can see, the kettle deserves a little attention.

How can you get that 3,000 watts down a bit?

Unlike most appliances, there isn’t much to be gained by simply going out and buying a new one. Current models aren’t much more efficient than those of several decades ago.

There are, however, a number of minor changes you can make that will really pay off when the bills come in. A few suggestions :

Only boil as much water as you need

If you’re only making a cup of tea for yourself, there’s no need to fill it up. It’ll just take longer to boil, and use a lot more power in the process.

If your kettle already has a see-through window with markings on it, great. If not, just fill the cup you’re about to use (with water) and tip it into the kettle to gauge the right amount.
Keep the water hot, longer

The warmer a kettle’s water is to start with, the less effort is taken to boil it the next time. Whenever possible, leave the kettle in a warm spot.

You can even – and I never thought I’d say this – use a tea cosy. Just not one of the excessively frilly ones, please.

The starting temperature of the water can also make a big difference. Fill the kettle from the hot tap (most water heaters are reasonably efficient), or – even better – with water that’s already been heated for cooking. I’m not talking about the contents of your saucepan here, but if you’ve been doing a little steaming, use that. The water’s fine.
Switch it off before it reaches boiling point

Different hot drinks enjoy water heated varying amounts, but none of them requires the water to be boiling. Why do kettles boil the water then? It’s easier.

If you’re making a cup of tea (black, green or white), the ideal temperature is around 71C – 76C. For those of you who don’t happen to have a kitchen thermometer around, this is roughly when the water starts to move around in the kettle (you can hear it, even if your kettle doesn’t have a window). When the water starts to stir, switch the kettle off. You’ll not only save power, the tea may taste even better.

For Oolong tea (especially the finer cuts), leave the kettle for a little longer. The temperature to aim for here is 90C – 100C. The finer the cut, the lower the temperature (within the 90-100 range).

Coffee varies according to both type and process, but temperatures are generally in the 88C – 100C range.
Keep the kettle’s insides clean

If you live in a hard-water area, you may notice the occasional build-up of lime-scale inside your kettle. In order for the kettle to heat your water, it must first heat up this limescale coating. Get rid of it.

This is actually quite easy to do. When the kettle’s cool, fill it up to the heating element with water; and add a little vinegar. Let it stand there like this overnight, and wash it out in the morning. The limescale will be gone, and you’ll have a more efficient kettle.
Use a Thermos flask

If you’ve ever had hot drinks whilst camping, having a picnic or just travelling somewhere, chances are you’ve used a Thermos flask. These work well largely due to their insulation – which is extremely good. Hot drinks stay hot for a very long time.

This can also be a good idea when you’re at home. Just boil a few cups of water in the kettle, then fill up the Thermos flask. Use that hot water for your next few cups of tea or coffee.

Final thoughts on saving money with your kettle

I once knew a Scotsman (OK, several – I used to live there) who boiled eggs in his kettle when he made himself a coffee in the morning. You don’t have to go that far, but the above changes will make a noticeable difference in your power bills. After all, a kettle’s a pretty big hitter in the energy stakes.

Now, time for a cup of tea. At 71C-76C, of course.

Review : The Can-O-Worms Worm Farm

Scott Bird — Mon, 08 Oct 2007 05:50:14 +0000

As I noted recently, I love my worms.

For the past couple of years I’ve had a Can-O-Worms worm farm in the backyard (although they’re also fine in the kitchen, if you have room). In fact, I love it so much that it came with me when I moved overseas.

Here’s a look at this superb piece of equipment.

What is a worm farm? What do you do with it?

Before discussing the Can-O-Worms itself, let’s take a step back and look at worm farms in general. After all, they’re not as common as they should be.

A worm farm is like a potted plant, without the plant. It’s a large container filled with soil, with drainage holes in the bottom and some sort of a lid to keep out the rain. Living in the soil are several hundred worms.

The idea behind it is simple : your kitchen scraps (teabags, potato peelings, eggshells and so on) are put in the top, and the worms convert this into nutrient-rich ‘casts‘ and fertiliser. These can then be added to your vegetable garden, and the process starts again.

NB : The ‘casts’ (sometimes called ‘vermicasts‘) are really just lumps of soil that have already been processed by the worms.

The Can-O-Worms

When I bought this, there really wasn’t all that much choice. However, it has several features which have kept at the top of the worm-farm list for some time. These include :

The bulk of the device stands on several ‘stilts’, which allow airflow under and around the worm farm. In addition to preventing the setup from smelling foul, this height also enables a watering can or bucket to be easily placed beneath the tap (for liquid fertiliser – aka ‘worm tea’).
The Can-O-Worms is made up of several layers, which are simply ‘shuffled’ when the top one becomes full. The worms will automatically find their way to whichever one is on top; where the food is.
This is an extremely low maintenance device. However, the replacement items (such as a mat for the topmost section, to keep moisture out) are easy to get in garden centres around the world.

Kitchen to Yard : using a worm farm

When it comes to transferring the kitchen scraps to the worm farm, there are several ways of handling things. As I like to keep things simple, I :

use a dedicated ‘peeling rack’ above the kitchen sink. This just catches peelings and other scraps when I’m preparing a meal. The worms will eat almost anything, so I always end up with a fair bit of material.
I keep an empty ice-cream container (any reasonably large plastic container with a lid is fine) beneath the sink. When I’m clearing up, the contents of the ‘peeling rack’ go in here. I also add teabags, coffee grounds, eggshells and small amounts of paper whenever they become available.
Whenever the container is full (every few days or so) I take it out and empty it into the top of the worm farm.

That’s it.

Great, where can you get the Can-O-Worms?

There are two main sources for something like this. They are :

garden centres, or almost anywhere you buy plant pots, soil or fertiliser
environmental stores, such as Wiggly Wigglers in the UK, Happy D Ranch in the US or Kookaburra Worm Farms in Australia

Final thoughts on the Can-O-Worms

There are two main reasons for getting the Can-O-Worms – or any other – worm farm. These are :

There’ll be a lot less garbage to put out in the trash can each week
The fertilizer it produces is great for the veggie garden, so you’ll end up with more – and tastier – food

Additionally, it can be a great project for the kids. As long as they don’t try to name all of the worms, that is.

As far as I’m concerned, the combination of less work/more food (healthy, of course) is a definite winner.

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Kitchen Essentials : What to Look for When Buying a Kitchen Knife

Scott Bird — Sun, 07 Oct 2007 05:50:21 +0000

This is the second part of the Kitchen Essentials series . Whether you’re stocking a new kitchen or just updating a few things, this is a great place to start.

A few years ago I had a part-time job in a nearby cafe. One of my coworkers was a professional chef who’d recently moved to the city, and was working there whilst looking for a full-time restaurant position. Her skills in a number of areas were far greater than those of everyone else in the kitchen, so it came as little surprise that she brought her own knives to the job.

After using them a couple of times I realised that there was an enormous difference between these superb tools and the cheaper options scattered about the cafe. They were well balanced, easy to clean and incredibly sharp. Superb.

It was then that I stopped using my cheap set of knives at home (ones that had come free with a knife block), and went out shopping for something a little more serious. If you don’t have the luxury of going knife shopping with a chef, here are a few things to keep in mind.

How many Knives?

The first thing to determine is the number of knives you will actually need. No doubt you have seen enormous sets of knives displayed on the walls of department stores – 50 or more knives to cover every possibility.

Ignore these – at least the idea of owning a complete set. In most cases you will only need 1.

However, your choice of knives will depend very much on the things you regularly cook. These 4 will cover the majority of uses :

A large chopping knife for general chopping.
Serrated bread knife for bread and pastries.
Small vegetable knife for peeling.
Filleting or boning knife for filleting fish and boning meat.

Personally, I use the first one (a large chopping knife) for most things. If you’re only looking to buy one, start here.

What kind of Knife?

This will depend on the size of your hands, needs and budget. The main things to look for are :

Size : The stated size refers to the length of the blade. The overall length will be almost double this.
Weight : The weight of the blade varies considerably, and your decision comes down to personal preference.
Style : Eastern or Western (see below).
Maintenance : how long will you spend sharpening it? How often?
Price : By-and-large, with knives you get what you pay for. They will, however, last you a lifetime.

Construction

A little understanding of how knives are put together will help you narrow down the options. Here’s a quick rundown.

Knives are made of several parts :

Blade : The edge that cuts
Spine : The back of the blade
Tip : The front section of the blade, used for delicate cutting
Point : The sharp point at the end of the tip, used for piercing
Tang : The section which carries the handle
Bolster (optional) : A thick section of steel in between the handle and tang

Commercially there are three techniques used to make knives (or their components). These are :

Block : Knives are cut from a sheet, similar to the way cookies are cut from dough. They are typically light, poorly balanced and inexpensive. A bolster is never included.

Forge : A steel blank is made and then pounded into shape; either by hand or with a drop forge machine. This method provides a thick bolster (which is not economically viable using other techniques), and the knives are typically strong and sharp.

The Henckels site shows this process in action.

Sinter : These knives are made by fusing together the blade and tang. This may be done as an economy measure, or to enable construction of otherwise impossible forms. These knives typically fall in between those made by block or forge; particularly in terms of price, balance and strength.

Style

There are two basic styles as far as the cutting edges are concerned; these may be thought of loosely as Eastern and Western. For simplicity I’ll address the Japanese and German brands, which together account for the majority of those on sale (at least in the forge and sinter categories).

Japanese knives are typically made from a harder steel, which allows the blades to be thinner (and therefore lighter). The bevel angles are also slightly more acute, and the blades are generally sharper. These knives will also hold an edge for a longer period (they last longer before needing sharpening); the only negative is that the sharpening itself takes a little longer.

German knives are made from a slightly softer steel than their Japanese counterparts, have a different shape (and this is where personal taste comes in) and are quick and simple to sharpen. Their blades tend to be a little thicker (and heavier), and they will require fairly frequent maintenance (sharpening).

The choice then, is better performance (but a higher maintenance requirement) vs reduced performance (but less maintenance required).

Sharpening Your Knife

Keeping a knife sharp not only makes it easier to cut things, it reduces the chance of injury. A dull blade is much more likely to catch on something and end up testing itself on one of your fingers.

If you’re wondering how often to sharpen your knives, the answer is a simple one – whenever things become difficult to cut. That’s really all there is to it.

When it comes to the process itself, there are three basic methods. A steel (that thing that looks like a round sword) may be used, a grinding stone or a dedicated knife sharpener. There are pros and cons for each.

Steel : If you’ve ever come across a knife block in a department store, randomly grabbed one of the handles and thought ‘what’s that for?‘ – chances are you were looking at a steel. This is a long, heavy, round piece of, well, steel.

A steel essentially ‘smears’ the edge, or straightens it a bit. This has the effect of sharpening it.

There are a couple of ways to do this, but the general idea is to hold the knife at an angle of around 22.5 degrees (it’s easier to think of it as 1/4 of a right angle). Moving the knife (the steel stays in place), slide it up the steel at this angle. Turn it over and slide it back down, again at 22.5 degrees. Repeat a half-dozen times or so.

Click the above picture for video of Harvest Eating‘s Keith Snow demonstrating this technique.

Stone : Ever seen a key being copied? (and I’m not referring to the putty method favoured on crime dramas). Sharpening a knife using a grindstone is a similar process. Essentially the blunt area is cut back a bit, revealing a sharp blade.

NB : there are stones designed for use with water (such as this one) and others for oil. The overall technique, however, is almost identical.

Click the above picture for video of The Cook and the Chef‘s Simon Bryant demonstrating this technique (see Sharpening Knives).

Sharpener : These come in many forms, and are perhaps the simplest for home use. A knife is drawn between two stones held at predetermined angles, working in much the same way as the grindstone method above. This is the simplest solution.

Washing

Many knives – particularly the more expensive brands – do not like the chemicals commonly found in dishwashers. If your knife doesn’t explicitly say ‘dishwasher safe‘, wash it by hand.

Storage

The first time you effortlessly slice through something fairly tough (pumpkin, pineapple, turnip etc) you will fall in love with your knife. Throwing it in the drawer with everything else just isn’t an option.

Knife block : Perhaps you already have a knife block that fits your knife. Just remember to store the knife with the weight on its spine (blade pointing up). It’ll last a little longer between sharpening sessions.

Blade protectors : These are plastic sleeves that slide over the knife, protecting the blade from other nearby items. The knife will probably come with one.

On a shelf : If you use your knife as often as I do, keep it handy. Store it on an easily accessible shelf, or in an uncluttered drawer. Lying flat, of course.

NB : When you want to take the knife travelling, a knife roll is a great way to carry it.

How long will it last?

Cheap knives may last weeks, months or years.

A good knife will last for several generations.

What type of knife have I got?

For nearly all uses I have a 9″ (I have fairly large hands) Japanese Cook’s Knife made by Henckels. Japanese style, German make. A beautiful thing.

Final thoughts on buying a kitchen knife

I realise that there’s a lot to think about when it comes to buying a knife, and that you aren’t going to make a decision in the next ten minutes (even with a chef at my disposal, it took a bit of work).

However, the most important thing to remember is :

Buy one knife, and make it a good one.

You’ll be well rewarded.

This is the second part of the Kitchen Essentials series. If you missed the first part, here it is :

7 Essential Kitchen Gadgets

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7 Essential Kitchen Gadgets

Scott Bird — Sun, 30 Sep 2007 04:37:54 +0000

I believe that a major part of keeping your diet in check is having the ability to prepare great food at home. Of course, the occasional take-away or restaurant meal is great; but so is a Sunday Roast. Mmmm.

This series takes a look at several key tools and appliances for helping you prepare that perfect meal – whatever it is. First up, 7 Essential Kitchen Gadgets.

Over the past month the kitchen here was ripped out and replaced with a shiny new version. After a few minutes admiring the new cupboards, benches and major appliances; it was time to get out some of my favourite kitchen gadgets. 7, to be precise.

Note that when I say ‘gadget‘, I don’t necessarily mean that odd-looking single-purpose device you bought years ago at a kitchen show and never use. These are simply the tools and appliances in my kitchen that make life that much easier.

Food Processor

These vary enormously in price (from the cheap ones in your local supermarket to the professional models found in kitchen stores), and this is generally determined by a couple of features. If you need these, get your wallet ready.

These features are :

the ability to handle hot liquids (such as soups)
the ability to handle hard objects (such as ice cubes)

If you don’t particularly need these functions, congratulations – you just saved yourself some serious cash.

Personally, I’ve always gone for the Magimix food processors – simply as these were favoured by several kitchen stores nearby when I initially bought one (a food processor that is, not a kitchen store). Highly recommended machines.

There are, however, several other excellent devices on the market; and this will vary according to your location. A couple of great brands to watch out for are the Cuisinart and KitchenAid models.

Cost : usually somewhere between $100 and $600.
Where to get them : these are often one of the first things to be marked down in a ‘Grand Opening Sale‘ of a kitchen or department store. At other times, the larger department stores generally offer a good range.

Rice Cooker

I’ve always eaten a lot of rice (usually steamed or boiled). For a number of years I suffered with the common boiling water or microwave approaches; not realising just how convenient a rice cooker is. Now, of course, I can’t imagine living without one.

With a lot of meals (such as stir-fries), a small amount of steamed rice is an ideal accompaniment. The rice cooker makes this such a pain-free process that you’ll be doing it all the time. In my case, once or twice a day.

Of course, a rice cooker enables you to steam much more than rice. It offers the usual steamer setup – a container of boiling water working away under the food of your choice. A meal of steamed fish, vegetables and rice is only 20 minutes away.

Cost : around $20 to $80.
Where to get them : although you’ll find them in most department stores, the models in places like K-Mart or Target are generally pretty good.

Coffee Grinder

I’ve tried a couple of times to quit drinking coffee, with little success. Actually, there have been two major changes resulting from those attempts.

The first is that I now drink much, much less of it than I did a few years ago (I reduced a habit of 8-10 cups per day to a much more manageable 2-3 cups per week). The second is that I figured if I’m only going to have 2-3 cups per week, they’d better be good.

The gadget, then, is a coffee grinder. If you were getting ready for the words ‘espresso machine’, well, there’s something you should know. To me, the act of preparing coffee is half the fun.

If I’m out somewhere, chances are I’ll let someone else do things their own way. When I’m home, however, a simple cafetière (aka presspot, French press or plunger) is my friend. To find out how to work magic with one of these things, head over to Coffee Geek.

For the grinder itself, Coffee Geek again is the place to go.

Cost : anywhere from $5 to several hundred.
Where to get them : eBay and Amazon are great for this sort of thing.

Chest freezer

I don’t know what it’s like around your area, but chest freezers are anything but common in homes here. Pity, really; because they can be great for those on a tight budget. Used properly, that is.

The general idea is to fill it with joints of meat, frozen fruit and vegetables. Buy these items in bulk (in season, of course) and pack them away for later in the year. Being able to add berries to almost any dessert feels very luxurious indeed.

The Simple Savings site has some great information on being frugal with a chest freezer. Also worth a listen is their podcast on the same topic.

Cost : anywhere from $20 (second-hand) to a few hundred.
Where to get them : many of the stores that sell whitegoods (fridges, freezers, washing machines etc) will sell them, but won’t necessarily put them on display. Just ask – they can often order them in.

Bread machine

I love the smell of fresh bread. Walking past a bakery at 4 in the morning (especially toward the end of a big night out) is heavenly.

Unfortunately, baking bread – although I love doing it – takes a fair bit of time and effort. For me, this usually means it’s a Sunday thing.

If you’re in the same boat – you love fresh bread, but don’t always have the time to make it – get a bread machine. They’re wonderful things.

The operation couldn’t be simpler. Pour the ingredients into the machine, select the desired finishing time and tell it how you’d like it (thick crust, slightly softer and so on). Press start and walk away. Several hours later the house will be filled with that wonderful fresh bread smell. Love it.

Note : If you set things up before you go to bed, you get to wake up to that bakery aroma. Set your alarm 10 minutes early, and enjoy.

Cost : Usually $100 – $200.
Where to get them : They’re a little heavy to ship, so the cheapest place is often your nearest department store. Most of the majors will have them.

Mortar and Pestle

When it comes to therapeutic items in the kitchen, the mortar and pestle surely tops the list. This exceedingly simple setup of a small bowl (the mortar) and a stick (the pestle) is much more versatile than many people realise.

The basic idea, of course, is to grind ingredients rather than slice them. This is the perfect way to prepare spice combinations such as Garam masala (once you’ve made your own, you’ll never buy the ready-made stuff again); mixing ingredients for foods such as guacamole and pesto; and making Japanese foods such as Mochi.

Cost : $10 – $30
Where to get them : These are available in any number of kitchen shops, department stores and online retailers; though my personal favourites are those found tucked away in tardis-like Asian supermarkets. Well-made and usually reasonably priced.

Juicer

One of the tasks I had whilst working in a cafe was to prepare the fresh fruit juice. Each morning, several crates of oranges and a large bag of plastic bottles was carted over to the largest juicing machine I’ve ever seen. Just watching it in action was amazing.

Of course, there’s no need to go out and grab an industrial strength machine for home use. There are, however, several machines on the market that perform the same function – juicing your favourite fruits, minus the skins and seeds – without taking up the entire counter.

Now, there are three basic approaches at this point, and your decision will determine the amount of cleaning up you’ll need to do after each use :

Simple mechanical devices that squeeze citrus fruits via a plunger action. These are the ones I usually go for, as they look great and require minimal cleaning.
Simple mechanical devices that operate via a grinding action (much like a mincer). These are great for items such as wheatgrass. Once again, these require only a small amount of cleaning.
More complex appliances that will take almost any type of fruit, remove the stones and seeds; neatly offering up a cup of fruit juice. These are great in terms of the end product – though there’s more cleaning up required.

Personal favourite – a Metrokane plunger-style device that looks very much like the ED-209 from RoboCop. Long-lasting, minimal cleaning – it just works. Perfect.

Cost : anywhere from $50 to $200
Where to get them : the prices for these don’t seem to vary much between retailers, so any kitchenware shop or department store is a safe bet.

Kitchen Gadgets : Final thoughts

Whilst I enjoy a Chinese take-out or restaurant meal (or Thai, Vietnamese or Korean), there’s nothing quite like relaxing in the kitchen on a Sunday afternoon. The 7 appliances listed above are a great start when I’m doing exactly that.

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10 Ways You Can Help The Environment (and save money)

Scott Bird — Sun, 23 Sep 2007 22:48:12 +0000

As you may have noticed, Rob cares deeply about the environment. If you’re wondering how you can help out in this respect, here are 10 simple things you can do. As a bonus, you might just save yourself some money in the process.

No matter where you stand on the many environmental issues we are all faced with daily, chances are that you’re in favour of saving a little money. Here are 10 ways in which you can help out both the planet and your pocket.

Leave the car at home occasionally. In many cases it’s cheaper to take public transport to work, cycle or even walk (if that last one seems odd, move to Hobart – it’s very much a normal thing). If possible, work from home one day per week.
In addition to the environmental benefits, you’ll most likely find you save money, increase your fitness and reduce stress. There’s absolutely no downside.
Switch off lights and appliances when you’re not using them. How’d you like to reduce your power bills? Personally, I’d like to get rid of mine altogether. To avoid paying for lights and appliances when you’re not using them, switch them off.
NB : Putting things into ‘standby mode‘ still uses power. If you’ve got your television, DVD player, cable box etc all set up just the way you like them; just plug them all into the one power strip and plug that into the wall. That way it’s a simple matter to switch everything off/on at once.
Take your own shopping bag. Many shops these days will provide a heavy-duty reusable shopping bag, designed to bring with you each time you go shopping. In addition to helping out the environment by reducing the number of shopping bags produced, these are generally much stronger, larger and harder-wearing than their disposable counterparts.
Grow your own herbs and vegetables. This is one of my favourite ways to help the environment, my diet and my pocket – all at the same time. A herb and vegetable garden requires a surprisingly small space (my own is roughly 2′ x 3′) and is incredibly easy to set up.
If you’re not exactly known as a ‘green thumb’, start with tomatoes, peas, beans or parsley. They’ll grow no matter what you do to them (although water and sunlight are always welcomed).
Set up a worm farm. This one seems to get mixed reactions. As I’ve always associated worms with good soil and plants growing well, I love the things.
Why would you want to raise worms? Simple – they eat your kitchen scraps, and break them down into a nutritious material which is perfect for the herb garden mentioned above. This means you’ll be filling up the garbage bin less often (which ultimately means you’ll be saving money – after all, you’re the one paying for rubbish collection), have even more herbs and vegetables to feast on and you won’t have a bin filled with scraps for several days whilst waiting for your next collection. Perfect.

NB : Worm farms don’t smell, and there are models available for both indoor and outdoor use.
Turn off the tap when brushing your teeth. Growing up in Sydney (which is currently in drought) I’ve been exposed to a number of water-saving measures. As a bonus, the water bills are kept nice and low.
This one simply means that instead of leaving the tap running throughout the tooth-brushing procedure, just switch it on at the end for a few seconds to wash everything down the drain. On average you’ll save around 9 litres of water per minute – enough each day to wash your car.
Take four minute showers. Paired with the above item, this will often have a dramatic impact on your water bills. Four minutes is generally long enough to wash thoroughly, without slipping into ‘daydream mode‘.
NB : The four minutes is only a guideline, and it applies to the time in which the water is running. If you’re shaving in the shower, just think of it in the same way as the tooth-brushing above. Run the water at the start and end of the process.
Buy energy efficient appliances. When it comes time to replace the fridge, dishwasher or washing machine – in fact almost any electrical appliance – buy the most energy and water efficient one you can afford. Although this will often cost a little more at the beginning, it’ll save you money on running costs. Think lower bills for many, many years.
If you already have a bag, there’s no need to get another one. When you’re out shopping at a number of stores, it’s easy to get a new bag for every single item you buy. Very quickly you run out of fingers.
For a number of items, however – especially the smaller ones – it’s easy enough to pop them into one of your existing bags. Not only does this make it easier to carry things, it saves producing the bags in the first place – and saves you money. After all, the cost of the bags gets included in the things you buy.
Switch to a Green electricity plan. I’ll say up-front that the cost of this one varies from place to place; so shop around. In some cases it will represent a cost saving; in others there may actually be a slight increase in your power bills. Look carefully.
A Green electricity plan simply ensures that you’re buying electricity produced by renewable means – solar power, wind farms, hydroelectric schemes and so on. The electricity itself is exactly the same.

How do I do this? Call up your power supplier and ask them what green plans they have available. In most cases they will simply send you out a form to confirm the transfer; and the switch itself takes place silently in the background. Very straightforward.

Final thought On Helping The Environment

Of course there are many other ways in which you can help the environment, as well as saving yourself a little money. It definitely can be a win-win situation.

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Healthy Asian Cooking IV : Stir-frying

Scott Bird — Sun, 23 Sep 2007 00:06:48 +0000

If you’ve ever found yourself eating from cardboard and plastic containers using flimsy wooden chopsticks, the term ‘healthy Asian cooking’ may sound a little odd at first. However – as with most types of cooking – doing it yourself can make a big, big difference.

This series looks at several basic concepts which will help you put simple, healthy meals on the table whilst keeping the cost down, and the kitchen time to a minimum. It’s very much a win-win-win situation.

Stir-frying can be a great way to prepare quick, healthy meals. With a non-stick wok or pan you’ll need very little oil, and many dishes only take a few minutes to produce. It’s a great mix.

When stir-frying, it’s essential to be well prepared. With such a short cooking time, there’s no opportunity to go searching for an ingredient you’ve forgotten, or to add something which isn’t close by. A few things to consider :

Do the cutting first

Slice as much as possible before you even think about heating up the wok. Remember that the more finely sliced something is, the faster it will cook. Chop any meats up into thin strips or small cubes.

Put everything within reach

Have everything you’ll need close to hand. Spices, vegetables, meats; a little oil to get things started. Once you’re underway, there isn’t time to go for a walk.

Cook things in order

Regardless of how much food you’re cooking, try to keep to the following order. This will help ensure a great result every time :

aromatic seasonings such as green tea, ginger and garlic
meats or seafood
hard vegetables such as carrots
soft vegetables such as spinach
sauce

Basic Stir Fry cooking Technique

The actual cooking technique is fairly straightforward. You really can’t go too far wrong.

Try this :

Heat the wok (use the highest temperature setting available) for about 30 seconds. Add a tablespoon or two of oil.
Swirl the wok around so that the oil coats the surface fairly evenly.
Add any dry seasonings desired – garlic, ginger, green tea. You’ll smell these within a second or two.
Add the other ingredients (try to stick to the order mentioned above, if possible) and put the lid on. Swirl the covered wok around a few times to mix everything up.
Remove the lid. Most of the water will have evaporated, leaving you ready to begin the fun part – stir-frying.
Use a spatula/wooden spoon/chopsticks (anything that won’t burn, and feels comfortable) to toss the food over the surface of the wok. Try to give everything roughly the same time over the heat.

That’s it. Serve and enjoy.

This is the fourth part of a series on Healthy Asian Cooking. You’ll find the other articles at :

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Review : Gymboss interval timer

Scott Bird — Wed, 12 Sep 2007 01:16:30 +0000

This is a great little thing.

Although I first heard the name quite some time ago, it was only fairly recently that I began my foray into the world of interval training (more on that in a minute). For this type of session, the Gymboss is a perfect workout partner.

Before I talk about the device itself, let’s take a brief look at interval training.

What is interval training?

Interval training takes almost any cardiovascular exercise (running, cycling and so on) and incorporates alternating bursts of intense and moderate work. For example, on a stationary cycle you may pedal as fast as you can for 20 seconds; then continue at a much more modest pace for 10 seconds. Then 20 seconds flat out again. Keep repeating this for several minutes.

This form of training is believed by many to promote fat loss; and several studies (I’ve noted a couple of these below) support this line of thinking.

What does the Gymboss do? How does it help?

The tricky part of this style of training is often timing the intervals. Whilst you could just look at your watch or a clock, this takes your focus away from the task at hand. This is where the Gymboss steps in.

After telling the Gymboss how long you would like each interval, it will beep (or vibrate, or both) at you each time you need to switch from fast -> slow or vice-versa. This alarm will keep going off at the end of each interval as many times as you like.

Just to make life even easier, the Gymboss is small and clips to a belt (or anything else convenient). Very well designed, easy to use and exactly as I’d want it to be. Perfect.

Final thoughts

As Jim pointed out on Lean and Hungry Fitness (an excellent site, incidentally) :

I guarantee, 20 seconds has never felt so long, 10 seconds never so short, and four minutes never so painful.

Love it.

Studies

A couple of the studies I touched on above :

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Book review : The Optimum Nutrition Bible

Scott Bird — Mon, 10 Sep 2007 04:48:40 +0000

I bought this book several years ago to satisfy my curiosity about vitamins. Whilst it answered most of the questions I had at the time, it raised many, many more. Perfect.

The Optimum Nutrition Bible is certainly a comprehensive guide. As the name suggests, it’s a great reference guide; but it also contains an excellent introduction to the basic ideas of Optimum Nutrition.

The edition I have (2004, paperback) begins with 5 chapters looking at various aspects of Optimum Nutrition itself – what it is, ideas on the perfect diet and a look at the wondrous workings of a healthy digestive system.

However, it’s the second half of the book that I find myself referring to on a regular basis. Here’s a brief look.

Your personal nutrition program

If you know you’re not healthy and your current diet is less than perfect, this is perhaps the greatest part of the book. After asking several pertinent questions, the book will suggest a number of dietary changes that should help get you on the right track (often in very quick time). Once your overall health is under control, everything else becomes that much easier.

Incidentally, if you’re already in reasonably good shape and your diet isn’t that bad; this is still a very useful chapter. A little fine tuning can make an enormous difference.

A to Z of Nutritional Healing

Whilst you may already be in the habit of taking Vitamin C when you have a cold, or Calcium and Magnesium to help you sleep; this chapter provides detailed diet and supplement advice for asthma, diabetes, hayfever, constipation and many more. If you’re not feeling 100%, this is a superb resource.

Common questions

Finally, the book addresses a multitude of common questions – all in great detail, as you’d expect. Ever wondered how much fibre you really need? What’s in a well-balanced diet? Which carbohydrates you should eat?

Read on. It’s a great book.

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Healthy Asian cooking III : Steaming

Scott Bird — Sun, 09 Sep 2007 04:50:48 +0000

If you’ve ever found yourself eating from cardboard and plastic containers using flimsy wooden chopsticks, the phrase ‘healthy Asian cooking’ may sound a little odd at first. However – as with most types of cooking – doing it yourself can make a big, big difference.

This is definitely one of my favourite cooking methods, and I use it regularly for fish, rice and vegetables. It’s also a great way to reheat a meal without drying it out.

Steaming involves a ridiculously simple setup – a bowl (containing the food) sitting atop a container of boiling water. There are several ways in which to do this :

A wooden steamer basket and a wok : when it comes to steaming foods (apart from rice), this is my usual setup. A bamboo basket (with lid) is placed in a wok; usually sitting about halfway up the sides.

With the basket already in the wok, pour water into the wok so that it covers the bottom half-inch or so of the steamer (try not to flood the floor of the basket itself). This will prevent the wood burning.

Put your plate of food into the basket (or place the food directly in the steamer), put the lid on and switch the gas/electricity on. That’s all there is to it.

NB : Whenever you lift the lid to check on your food, angle the lid away from you. There’ll be a lot of steam in there.

Also, if the water level drops markedly, you may need to add some more. Have a glass ready.

A metal steaming rack and a wok : This method is similar to the one above. The rack will sit about half-way up the wok; put the water in the bottom of the wok, the food on the rack and the lid on the entire thing.

NB : If you don’t have a bamboo steamer or a metal rack for the wok, just put a small bowl in the centre of the wok. Place your plate of food on top of the bowl, and pour some water around the outside. Cover the entire thing with a wok lid, or any large metal lid you’ve got handy.

A large pot and a bowl or plate : Put some water in a large bowl, and cover it with a snug-fitting bowl or plate (containing the food). Place a metal or glass lid over the bowl or plate.

If you’re using a folding metal steamer with the large pot, just put a small bowl in the water, and sit the steamer on top. You can even put another plate of food on top of this. Once again, cover the large pot with a lid.

NB : Many saucepan sets come with several steamers which are designed for stacking. Just remember that if you’re stacking them up, you’ll need to put more water in the bottom pan.

Rice cooker : This probably gets more use than any similar-sized appliance in my kitchen. Although I eat a fair bit of rice, the rice cooker is often used for steaming fish (of course, it can easily accommodate many other foods). Just put some water in the bottom, a plate of food on the metal rack and the lid in place. Beautiful.

Dedicated steamers : If steamed rice doesn’t feature heavily in your diet, a dedicated steamer may be a better choice. The operation is almost identical to that of a rice cooker.

Other options : As with any type of cooking, there’s an incredible range of equipment that can be used. Whatever you have to hand, just remember the general idea – boiling water, food, lid. That’s it.

If you missed the first two articles in this series, head over to :

Enjoy.

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Quick tip : Keep a workout diary

Scott Bird — Sun, 09 Sep 2007 03:27:50 +0000

Regardless of what sort of exercise you do, keeping a workout diary can prove incredibly useful. Particularly after you’ve been working out for a year or more.

When I say ‘workout diary‘, I don’t necessarily mean anything fancy. A notebook and pen is really all you need. Just keep it handy whenever you set to work – whether that’s a quick set of sit-ups each morning or a lunchtime run around the park – and jot down what you did. In a few months or more you can glance back and say to yourself ‘Is that all I was doing then? I’ve come a long way in a few months‘.

It’s great motivation.

Stay tuned

Also appearing on the site this week :

Healthy Asian Cooking III : Steaming
Fitness gadget : The GymBoss Interval Timer
Book review : The Optimum Nutrition Bible

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Book review : Light on Yoga

Scott Bird — Wed, 05 Sep 2007 00:40:42 +0000

This was the first book I ever purchased on Yoga, and it’s easily the most comprehensive. Well before the exercises begin is a history of the art itself, and a number of concepts which may sound unfamiliar to many.

Basic Yoga Principles

Before you make a dive for the yoga mat, take a look at the sections on the basic principles. These pages cover everything from breathing to preparing yourself mentally and physically for the work itself. There’s a lot of great information in there.

Yoga Exercises

Each exercise (and there are several hundred in the book) is depicted in great detail, with a photograph or two illustrating the pose. The information covers precisely how to move in and out of each pose, what to do when you’re not quite able to reach a particular point; and when to perform it.

The book also states – and this is perhaps the most important part of the description – what to expect whilst you’re holding the pose. What will stretch, where you’ll automatically put your weight; how you’ll feel.

Medical conditions

This is where the book really distinguishes itself. Based upon the experiences of his pupils whilst working as a teacher (for no less than 25 years), the author suggests groups of exercises which will aid various medical conditions. These conditions include such things as Arthritis, Asthma, High Blood Pressure, Diabetes and many, many more.

NB : There is no suggestion in the book that these exercises will magically cure the conditions; they can, however, help enormously.

Summary

Overall, it’s a fantastic book. If you’ve ever considered the possibility of Yoga but are not quite sure what it’s all about; Light on Yoga gives you a great look into this amazing world. You won’t be disappointed.

NB : This review was written based upon the 2001 paperback edition of this book. The current edition has included additional – equally valuable – information.

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Former Fat Guy Blog » Scott Bird

10 Quick Ways to Shrink Your Waste

Give it away

Sell it online

Compost heap

Make your own mulch

Take your own shopping bags

Set up a worm farm

Grow your own fruit & veg

Use it for something else

Restore and Renovate

Use biodegradable packaging

Final thoughts on shrinking your waste

CFLs and Mercury

What are Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs)?

The concern over mercury

What to do when a CFL breaks

Safe disposal of Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs)

An alternative to Compact Fluorescent Lights (CFLs)

Final thoughts on CFLs and mercury

Monitoring Your Energy Usage

EcoVision

Wattson

EWGECO

Kill-A-Watt

Other options

Final thoughts on Monitoring Your Energy Usage

Solar Technology in the Streets

What are the main advantages of solar-powered devices?

Solar-powered devices in the streets

Street lights

Parking meters

School safety lights

Bus shelters

Buses

Solar Road Markers

Temporary Traffic lights

Street signs

And a few that I’d like to see :

Permanent Traffic lights

Safety railings

Public Recharge points

Final thought on Solar Technology in the Streets

Saving Water : Designing a water-efficient house

Reduce the amount you use

Collect your rainwater

Re-use it where possible

Installing a greywater system

Blackwater

It isn’t just water you’ll be saving

Final thoughts on designing a water-efficient house

Saving Water : Using Greywater

What is Greywater?

What can greywater be used for?

Using greywater as-is

The Bucket Method

Simple redirection

What is an ‘appropriate’ part of the garden?

Things to avoid

Cleaning up the greywater

Why clean the greywater?

How is this done?

Keeping the greywater clean, naturally

Final thought on using greywater

Saving Water : How To Save Water Around Your House

Reduce the amount of water you use

Repair leaking plumbing fixtures

Reuse household water

Other ways to save water around the house

Final thought on saving water around the house

Saving water : Guttering and Drains

Water-wise gutters and drains

Adding value to your house

Where do I go from here?

Final thoughts on guttering and drains

Saving Water : The Benefits of Using a Water Tank

What is a water tank?

Types of water tanks

Benefits of tanks

What size tank do I need?